tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-52344501729852206612024-03-05T13:33:45.785+01:00Uncommon travel in authentic ItalyExploring Le Marche, Italy's unsung gem.Duncan Campbellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09583433367870552523noreply@blogger.comBlogger17125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5234450172985220661.post-44197681029261340802010-08-02T11:10:00.007+02:002010-08-02T12:52:35.668+02:00Hidden Havens: Valle Acquasanta<div style="text-align: justify;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIMncZNvJkplmieh0iHhXKvdYmZfTlQUSh6L_5ZYRX9WPs0lF2_tqmFBMUOF1zDBQ8oVviRpJ-F2qd-LUS-EBYex2q1fIzbByCwwOPi2XjRAUB3BlwQbJl_vFQsTN51GyneaknvntnwsR5/s1600/IMG_7190.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIMncZNvJkplmieh0iHhXKvdYmZfTlQUSh6L_5ZYRX9WPs0lF2_tqmFBMUOF1zDBQ8oVviRpJ-F2qd-LUS-EBYex2q1fIzbByCwwOPi2XjRAUB3BlwQbJl_vFQsTN51GyneaknvntnwsR5/s400/IMG_7190.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5500758365829653426" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">With sharp ridges, steep hills, and repetitive undulations being a feature of this area, finding a flat trail is unusual. But that's essentially what the path to the Acquasanta waterfalls and gorge is, with just a few rises and falls at either end of it. Better still, in these hot days of summer, the majority of it is through the cool of the forest, with tall beeches providing shade and respite from the beating sun.</span></span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">Wildflowers appear in colourful clusters, the trees range heavenward in their impressive strength and grandeur, and - in the latter half of the walk - waterfalls roll down rock walls and scree banks, offering refreshment and cooling stations, not to mention the beauty spell that cascades seem to cast on our human sensibilities.</span></span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">The main destination for most walkers are the waterfalls towards the end of the trail, and they're well worth the effort - streams fall down the steep hills in veils in one spot, and gush down in a singular channel in another. But beyond them lies the gorge itself, which - due to its narrowness and height - has been used in the past as a natural <span style="font-style: italic;">cantina</span>, the sun barely (if ever) reaching in to warm its stones. You can reach the gorge through a tunnel cut into the rock, and then - if you're drawn on - clamber up the river's rocky bed into the narrowing gorge, which twists and turns to its sheer-sloped beginnings. You'll need shoes for wading, and a strong constitution - the water is very, very cold.</span></span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">With all this wonderful water around, it's no wonder that an aqueduct has been built here, and for much of the way you'll follow its course, the raised concrete blocks and flagstones making for easy walking. Every now and then you can see into its channel, the cool, clear water running invitingly below, happily wending its way down to the town of Bolognola. Its quite an engineering feat, cutting through sheer rock walls in places, and disappearing under steep forested slopes in others. But it's had its impact on the landscape, particularly at its source and down in the valley below, and one wonders how it would be if left to its own (natural) devices. That said, it's a wonderful hike, and is good for the whole family, although at around 3-4 hours round trip, might be a bit long for the young ones.</span></span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">Directions: Just behind the church in the main (middle) section of Bolognola, there's a brown signpost for the Cascata di Acquasanta - follow this road, keeping left and go through the small <span style="font-style: italic;">borgo</span> to the end of the road, where there's a small parking lot. The trail is obvious just beyond the parking lot, heading down into the forest.</span></span><br /></div><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm9X7-u4XnomCBGXUvXhRD5Ajbn0fHwRrVFTURWluRnwnMODkdENC2WWh2V9z_2hf_2uCnQYILFd6awrtHKGw9E6Y1Wrwvex_RspjbMdKxmtMw0kdE1DX7BN7fWgipbQNdSLG1mNOZQGpx/s1600/IMG_7153.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm9X7-u4XnomCBGXUvXhRD5Ajbn0fHwRrVFTURWluRnwnMODkdENC2WWh2V9z_2hf_2uCnQYILFd6awrtHKGw9E6Y1Wrwvex_RspjbMdKxmtMw0kdE1DX7BN7fWgipbQNdSLG1mNOZQGpx/s400/IMG_7153.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5500758360978230962" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFPB3gTbgKkmAR4irN0wQUffqTjw5Vs48VHtdWlzJPtApuTDyPC5Lri3aTX7Bsxw2EVNWen3bENCI8hLJqHSVOgy_9S4unjoPBsDj165sjtY3wlqIlLl9hMRGIP2Xu2dC8RYFrfaNp6dxJ/s1600/IMG_7164.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFPB3gTbgKkmAR4irN0wQUffqTjw5Vs48VHtdWlzJPtApuTDyPC5Lri3aTX7Bsxw2EVNWen3bENCI8hLJqHSVOgy_9S4unjoPBsDj165sjtY3wlqIlLl9hMRGIP2Xu2dC8RYFrfaNp6dxJ/s400/IMG_7164.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5500758084864536898" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYoJc7QtwDC4EnC-bC0RatXjwLAxdTucrrdn7hgNByQuupPGTtscn9W9T76uOqxhX_lkVQ6WOvKC_IXpk_J8eVLG9gTi8uHyjm_DxL6EI3VqwFSkPNTW62YMBzWbsCU-3kPIDmnkIenA0E/s1600/IMG_7176.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYoJc7QtwDC4EnC-bC0RatXjwLAxdTucrrdn7hgNByQuupPGTtscn9W9T76uOqxhX_lkVQ6WOvKC_IXpk_J8eVLG9gTi8uHyjm_DxL6EI3VqwFSkPNTW62YMBzWbsCU-3kPIDmnkIenA0E/s400/IMG_7176.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5500758082433823954" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrSbRrXPoHa9rOmOrTOsJ2oE7bjQ0jx7DW7gMPcR3Bu5ESpZeM-cc8FFm4KiFONJGaYJdwBi-LpvDF8cpdcFsoX0PH-Ys3lJYksZab770d33gdCN5DYnaL33xN5w4DS9HkzQd_19tnWDJS/s1600/IMG_7157.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrSbRrXPoHa9rOmOrTOsJ2oE7bjQ0jx7DW7gMPcR3Bu5ESpZeM-cc8FFm4KiFONJGaYJdwBi-LpvDF8cpdcFsoX0PH-Ys3lJYksZab770d33gdCN5DYnaL33xN5w4DS9HkzQd_19tnWDJS/s400/IMG_7157.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5500758075344101906" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMiKlWOD99wVjnDqH5cL-AlEsLyaZaMQfjpZmtEqtXNA_akisuWcU-fND7KYZXAACjjiJdcjCFjwgrwOe78o5EEb9bTz-Upke8loK0P_AkeRThIwviE9y9mkJs7l07uLcPvH44iUdem5H4/s1600/IMG_7204.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMiKlWOD99wVjnDqH5cL-AlEsLyaZaMQfjpZmtEqtXNA_akisuWcU-fND7KYZXAACjjiJdcjCFjwgrwOe78o5EEb9bTz-Upke8loK0P_AkeRThIwviE9y9mkJs7l07uLcPvH44iUdem5H4/s400/IMG_7204.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5500758070748448962" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ0gpZ3v51vxbHVdzkKYOcA3XeNVWLlEFeRDTkGwgDOlSB-_I4U0w8IkZbW8f4camhI1B_it-LFsptETRpKu_w1F179ZtsVmvYIu6q18FUTtb8A9sKkmcXcdyGgJ1l3RX9dbCQBtcgK345/s1600/IMG_7209.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 278px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ0gpZ3v51vxbHVdzkKYOcA3XeNVWLlEFeRDTkGwgDOlSB-_I4U0w8IkZbW8f4camhI1B_it-LFsptETRpKu_w1F179ZtsVmvYIu6q18FUTtb8A9sKkmcXcdyGgJ1l3RX9dbCQBtcgK345/s400/IMG_7209.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5500758066234864306" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><br /></span></span>Duncan Campbellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09583433367870552523noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5234450172985220661.post-61738270799689918712009-11-10T09:29:00.005+01:002009-11-10T10:00:51.618+01:00Venues just waiting for the season<span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-style: normal;"><span style="text-decoration: none;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Le Marche has 71 restored theatres that the region – for good reason – mentions among its highlighted statistics in the preamble to many of its tourist promotion guides. 27 of these are in Macerata province (where I live), most of them built in the 19th Century, many of them replacing or renovating even older structures, and one or two of them retaining their original materials. For the most part following the neoclassical horseshoe shape with two, three, sometimes four tiers of boxes, among them are numerous veritable jewels with ornate curtains, Baroque façades, and frescoes depicting ancient legends and the theatres' origins. Including among them the first public theatre made entirely of wood (Camerino 1728) and with designs by famous architects such as Antonio Galli (Bibbieno) and Giuseppe Piermarini (Teatro alla Scala Milan), the theatres were hubs of the town's cultural life, and their performances enjoyed popularity until into the early part of the twentieth century. However, the intervening world wars caused many to fall into disrepair, which resulted in widespread closures and a few cases where the buildings were actually condemned. Thanks to a late twentieth century revival in the public's interest for their cultural heritage, numerous restoration projects were launched to return their local treasures to their erstwhile condition. After being closed for as long as twenty years, some were reopened as recently as 2005.<br /><br />To mark the start of the 2009/2010 theatre season, I thought it appropriate to profile two theatres – one of the largest, and one of the smallest.<br /><br />Named after the town's well-known 19th Century composer and director of the Conservatories of Milan and Naples, Macerata's Teatro Lauro Rossi has a capacity of 550, and its most recent restoration – complete in 1989 – “returned the hall to its ancient physiognomy, freeing it from all decorative encrustations.”<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXMZ3yLcXZhD0S0WtQ5McGyV29sSuo-4vAjN6-9OKLRgCYx8U9PXqN6hAZcv9gUrf29f9QMkCYvKHIQCYjrpHLuvBf3ndTray7z6xkWe-_xQWEXjZrB4W_t2oxbRmiK1pdqj7NE2uqOxim/s1600-h/teatro+lauro+rossi+4.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXMZ3yLcXZhD0S0WtQ5McGyV29sSuo-4vAjN6-9OKLRgCYx8U9PXqN6hAZcv9gUrf29f9QMkCYvKHIQCYjrpHLuvBf3ndTray7z6xkWe-_xQWEXjZrB4W_t2oxbRmiK1pdqj7NE2uqOxim/s400/teatro+lauro+rossi+4.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5402393493280413234" border="0" /></a><br />But it's the festival currently running that attracts the attention more than the theatre's architecture or history - the 41st <i>Festival Nazionale Macerata Teatro</i> for the Angelo Perugini prize runs until December 6th. The competition is open to amateur drama groups only, and this year attracts companies from places such as Brescia, Tuscany, Salerno, and Liguria. Among the playwrights whose works are being performed are Woody Allen, Ugo Betti, Thornton Wilder, and Daphne du Maurier.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSBWmo40kaz8K5l7cAm1MrQYVrgANIn6fAXQDD5py3B4FfA7A_k9ISVKz_VKszr-D0ErqzKrrXTxlqZ5eW7qxToOt2YsFx57ZBr5PgC2EPW9zPO51FlJnL4l9VXsR0mJNhfTSfzpkzddzb/s1600-h/teatro+lauro+rossi+2.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 296px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSBWmo40kaz8K5l7cAm1MrQYVrgANIn6fAXQDD5py3B4FfA7A_k9ISVKz_VKszr-D0ErqzKrrXTxlqZ5eW7qxToOt2YsFx57ZBr5PgC2EPW9zPO51FlJnL4l9VXsR0mJNhfTSfzpkzddzb/s400/teatro+lauro+rossi+2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5402393490617348162" border="0" /></a><br />The second example of Macerata's theatre masterpieces is also the joint smallest, with just 99 seats. It's in Penna San Giovanni, and it's unique in that it's the only one in the province made entirely of wood, and one of just a few throughout Italy.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvEtYKAU1pXJfkNg0WZl0YDvkg8NlkwftMJ0QSJ6DhxjiPtoXLA8B0NaFgBrgUXqILy28GrirSlho77H3N5bRDx6Yz9MFFznieVeNZJorinFWWXxvoaBPod_UQM6fBAJEUsaKPWoujMWGZ/s1600-h/pennasangiovanni2.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 384px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvEtYKAU1pXJfkNg0WZl0YDvkg8NlkwftMJ0QSJ6DhxjiPtoXLA8B0NaFgBrgUXqILy28GrirSlho77H3N5bRDx6Yz9MFFznieVeNZJorinFWWXxvoaBPod_UQM6fBAJEUsaKPWoujMWGZ/s400/pennasangiovanni2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5402393489154640498" border="0" /></a><br />Built in the 18th Century by local craftsman Antonio Lozzi with two tiers of boxes, it's a Baroque gem with carved columns, floral motifs, and an embellished polychrome ceiling. The theatre's programme has yet to be finalized for 2009/2010, but it's worth a visit at least once for its intimacy and old-world opulence.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC2GFcPm1VSP3AmvQuEENRnHjfTCcPKKMQsijD3njmVHktco4jTDAm2ZjNL966k8j2YbEyzYKeDcVgLjJ3RDvrXS1jaGZekL_-Ug8ZJbzchOxWvCqDy1ScqYX523EuSpJ3lLQjMIU5rQgq/s1600-h/pennasangiovanni1.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC2GFcPm1VSP3AmvQuEENRnHjfTCcPKKMQsijD3njmVHktco4jTDAm2ZjNL966k8j2YbEyzYKeDcVgLjJ3RDvrXS1jaGZekL_-Ug8ZJbzchOxWvCqDy1ScqYX523EuSpJ3lLQjMIU5rQgq/s400/pennasangiovanni1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5402393485258962802" border="0" /></a><p></p></span></span></span></span>Duncan Campbellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09583433367870552523noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5234450172985220661.post-74527364369686106202009-10-01T17:39:00.004+02:002009-10-02T14:31:56.086+02:00Le Grotte di Santa Sperandia and La Roccaccia<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtoBw6vVb4tB8RJTZx6_v7-9pLc20TAbuET27DVVPVFmx455N9g88ggLRu9UbD6rQ5Y_F_YAKO9V25Uex4AAlmYsIncq0BS0I3tRNTaK2623iP0a8EXkl7JDJW0jD_gK9hfQwqVZSfE8_X/s1600-h/IMG_5985+50pc.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtoBw6vVb4tB8RJTZx6_v7-9pLc20TAbuET27DVVPVFmx455N9g88ggLRu9UbD6rQ5Y_F_YAKO9V25Uex4AAlmYsIncq0BS0I3tRNTaK2623iP0a8EXkl7JDJW0jD_gK9hfQwqVZSfE8_X/s400/IMG_5985+50pc.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5387662991828284578" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;">The cave on the northern slopes of Monte Acuto must have been difficult to see in the 13th century and even harder to get to. Carved out of the mountain's precipitous cliffs, it sits above the the rugged valley of the Laque river just a few kilometres from Cingoli. Today one can clamber down the steep slope on sets of wooden and travertine steps to the place of stone and solitude where Santa Sperandia spent so many years of Benedictine penitence. Just getting down there in the 1200s must have been an ordeal, never mind how one might survive in such an environment.<br /><br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6iaaQCkFrR6fecxVh4qCkVqsuyVH2pJRKDaGOV3epqkM81kYUTEeCJXWXnOAUv-gPAUitpvTPrHPo19AeeE74baUVoQAElJHspVSz8WlB5BJxZXRycQFXRu8wXUfTgCZ-OxviX3nRhWpp/s1600-h/IMG_5972+50pc.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6iaaQCkFrR6fecxVh4qCkVqsuyVH2pJRKDaGOV3epqkM81kYUTEeCJXWXnOAUv-gPAUitpvTPrHPo19AeeE74baUVoQAElJHspVSz8WlB5BJxZXRycQFXRu8wXUfTgCZ-OxviX3nRhWpp/s400/IMG_5972+50pc.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5387663418160736482" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;">But Sperandia was no ordinary ascetic.<br /><br />More than a mere visionary, she was also renowned for her ability to perform miracles, and is best known for her act of producing fresh cherries to some hungry labourers one cold and snowy January. She died in 1276, and her incorrupt body now lies in state in the Sanctuary dedicated to her in Cingoli, where she is the town's patron saint.<br /><br />From the ridge of the mountain, the views are impressive. The closest town to the north is Cingoli, while to the south-east one can see Treia and Macerata. To the west you can see Monte San Vicino, while in the distance to the east lies Monte Conero and the Adriatic … on a clear day. Unfortunately, it was so hazy when I visited that I could barely see Macerata.<br /><br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2kMAXxXjfMxor9h7sojGthCFy5SNJ6phos1Ns9UPjvCAMfzLh5b8UtmKkGfl1tgxwTXfNMiIkuWEKjLYulrK1gG4wFQr_vqals6wuRriTUXbHszwQfM0-AUUk4exJVdy-mghQihS8Xp99/s1600-h/IMG_5997+50pc.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2kMAXxXjfMxor9h7sojGthCFy5SNJ6phos1Ns9UPjvCAMfzLh5b8UtmKkGfl1tgxwTXfNMiIkuWEKjLYulrK1gG4wFQr_vqals6wuRriTUXbHszwQfM0-AUUk4exJVdy-mghQihS8Xp99/s400/IMG_5997+50pc.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5387662985044443762" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;">On the edge of the mountain ridge are the ruins of the 13th century La Roccaccia. Only a few crumbling walls remain, but the surrounding area is littered with the stones of the one-time important medieval fortress.<br /><br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSd8q1_lxy7amPIZ-OZnv0o6kn9OZum9uyYVTe4YG4J8NI8AhS5k8S_uG5BIeOnYOGPLIYMlg-l5u6AtXeuAaY-FAdgwFFLXzyM6iVHCbXhqiYaIj9xY5jZbj_b7_FkdIyVPnCZoRc5V2R/s1600-h/IMG_5967+50pc.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSd8q1_lxy7amPIZ-OZnv0o6kn9OZum9uyYVTe4YG4J8NI8AhS5k8S_uG5BIeOnYOGPLIYMlg-l5u6AtXeuAaY-FAdgwFFLXzyM6iVHCbXhqiYaIj9xY5jZbj_b7_FkdIyVPnCZoRc5V2R/s400/IMG_5967+50pc.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5387663426498546658" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;">Monte Acuto with its man-made relics is an interesting place to consider the relationship between man and nature. It's clear that nature is slowly winning the battle to reclaim the territory of La Roccaccia, and Santa Sperandia's cave will remain intact for a long time, etched as it is into a cliff of stone upon which little grows. But the concrete shrine built into the cave in the 1970s covers a large part of its entrance, and it leaves you pondering what the intent was of its (evidently well-meaning) architects. One wonders what Santa Sperandia would make of this. There's little doubt she'd be less than enamoured with the quarries (and the accompanying drone of its trucks) that scar the hillsides below her erstwhile silent haven.<br /><br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVv6M3ZMsAkPwObQuqhF59lwZHuxLJo-gg52cnSvyvtiFcioqwuPLtUw2VxteVKqcd2WQOVjSEjupkJSltRqsjvwo1S92I0e3pZot1oP_Qls7tfoldePo6CNw23nt3RrzXJdOX7d9dXRGE/s1600-h/IMG_5983+50pc.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVv6M3ZMsAkPwObQuqhF59lwZHuxLJo-gg52cnSvyvtiFcioqwuPLtUw2VxteVKqcd2WQOVjSEjupkJSltRqsjvwo1S92I0e3pZot1oP_Qls7tfoldePo6CNw23nt3RrzXJdOX7d9dXRGE/s400/IMG_5983+50pc.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5387662998670562546" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;">Despite the human intrusions, it's still a wonderful place to spend some time, whether as a destination in and of itself or as a stopover or excursion between/from San Severino and/or Cingoli. Just behind the cross where you can leave your car is a wonderful cool patch of green grass just begging for a blanket, a picnic, and a lazy snooze. I was hard-pressed to ignore its call …</span><p><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"></span></strong></span><o:p></o:p></p>Duncan Campbellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09583433367870552523noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5234450172985220661.post-1476244518114008302009-08-18T18:40:00.008+02:002009-08-19T12:15:58.387+02:00Hidden Havens: Gola di Jana<span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">The backroads around Matelica in the middle-western part of the region are peppered with signs announcing that you're on the Franciscan Assisi-Loreto pilgrimage route. It's been well-trodden over the centuries, but there are others without signposts that are even older. The town once stood on a route that connected the Adriatic and Tyrrhenian seas, and dates back to the ancient Etruscan and Umbrian civilizations. The names of the area bear testament to this history, perhaps none more so than Gola di Jana, which lies to the north-east of Matelica beyond the village of Braccano.<br /><br /></span><span style="font-family:verdana;">Jana (or Giana) was an ancient deity of the sun and guardian of the gates of heaven, opening them at dawn and closing them at sunset. The east-west conjunction of Gola di Jana suggests that it might have borne some relationship to this pagan god, since it has a natural alignment with the arc of the sun as it traces itself across the sky, particularly during the summer soltice's rising sun and the setting sun of its winter counterpart.<br /><br /></span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoDuvTucs_HGDv3LGDUB3xBNnJaf2E60yl14aX83DKrc6XQ0NJCkm0-H3S_5nUysQllN_z-1ecCowTK96H8NAe_2iIgDyHiPH9xSFF0xYy3AsWhk9h0NxRk-TsswNEFDi_jdQuSCXRiSKq/s1600-h/IMG_5014.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoDuvTucs_HGDv3LGDUB3xBNnJaf2E60yl14aX83DKrc6XQ0NJCkm0-H3S_5nUysQllN_z-1ecCowTK96H8NAe_2iIgDyHiPH9xSFF0xYy3AsWhk9h0NxRk-TsswNEFDi_jdQuSCXRiSKq/s400/IMG_5014.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5371371009321342994" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">Conjectures and conjunctions aside, however, the gorge's stands of tall trees provide welcome respite from the summer sun, its steep sides converging into a narrow canyon whose precipitous cliffs you can touch with outstretched arms before you're boxed in by a waterfall fronted by an inviting pool with its crisp, clear water.<br /><br /></span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-M0i07o4c97-L4AsugWEASNxe22DPSq5J_z_Nv-5RMZfSYcNXKbfrwxzQXBnNGUQiNQ3XLZdBhT9FrAtGxy7ZPQh1DdWdgo_F3LtH9yFOb6Rfd6193a7L3ZDaMKddvMDZIw5Dm4ZFeo0s/s1600-h/IMG_5020.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-M0i07o4c97-L4AsugWEASNxe22DPSq5J_z_Nv-5RMZfSYcNXKbfrwxzQXBnNGUQiNQ3XLZdBhT9FrAtGxy7ZPQh1DdWdgo_F3LtH9yFOb6Rfd6193a7L3ZDaMKddvMDZIw5Dm4ZFeo0s/s400/IMG_5020.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5371371018023724498" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">There's a whole host of different plants and trees on its short trail, attracting butterflies, dragonflies, and other inhabitants that likely seldom venture beyond this small pocket of natural diversity.<br /><br /></span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinUdNJnPGDOl75kCC4iNy3oBml3HW6dsBluonE1mgCCeFfsASlIuqOqqgQlzzl6VtbUMqhvHNUiGBkzy4xEdpCXFDkG3KZFMXsBM4q4Q_Q_8n4ookUTJFcPqThOdHt8AHQ6ZxGXhUEoo_e/s1600-h/IMG_5062.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 322px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinUdNJnPGDOl75kCC4iNy3oBml3HW6dsBluonE1mgCCeFfsASlIuqOqqgQlzzl6VtbUMqhvHNUiGBkzy4xEdpCXFDkG3KZFMXsBM4q4Q_Q_8n4ookUTJFcPqThOdHt8AHQ6ZxGXhUEoo_e/s400/IMG_5062.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5371371024801396562" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">The road beyond the gorge's parking area opens up on to the hilly plains enclosed by mounts Canfaito, Pagliano and Argentaro, where you'll find the abandoned ruins of the Abbadia di Rotis. Old stone slabs in front of the abbey suggest an ancient temple where the very same Jana may have been worshipped.<br /><br /></span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrOFSQg_Way-dlwzjddE5uB5ASvxOCfks_PoE3-ST8hYbrPqgQrlq7mu-YgPTyE_RFspw1nv5aparTqgVPEvVJZ1PQNg-KCiI_56FhNhYMbZrnbumkYeNS7p3PEDGMu6bQ0P4XS_Ix2LQj/s1600-h/IMG_5066.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 340px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrOFSQg_Way-dlwzjddE5uB5ASvxOCfks_PoE3-ST8hYbrPqgQrlq7mu-YgPTyE_RFspw1nv5aparTqgVPEvVJZ1PQNg-KCiI_56FhNhYMbZrnbumkYeNS7p3PEDGMu6bQ0P4XS_Ix2LQj/s400/IMG_5066.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5371372582729036338" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><br /></span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFOYL1_urBhlIPXXlaQVKbQzl6gKtBeK2VsT0B_yS2pTsb3DGux4LeUyNRUYMvsWbddJCA9x9yXCZSofqIHlrX3zVbTTxI-Lh-4ljE6gosFRH8Eo2DmWKPiY_SEmuujI88oZ87iYCtF6f2/s1600-h/IMG_5097.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFOYL1_urBhlIPXXlaQVKbQzl6gKtBeK2VsT0B_yS2pTsb3DGux4LeUyNRUYMvsWbddJCA9x9yXCZSofqIHlrX3zVbTTxI-Lh-4ljE6gosFRH8Eo2DmWKPiY_SEmuujI88oZ87iYCtF6f2/s400/IMG_5097.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5371372591892938898" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">(If you click on the photos, a full-scale version opens.)</span></span>Duncan Campbellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09583433367870552523noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5234450172985220661.post-6939136064629125762009-08-15T11:17:00.005+02:002009-08-15T12:24:03.844+02:00Hidden havens: St Eustachio<span style="font-size:85%;">The beautiful medieval town of San Severino (in Le Marche's Macerata) province and the nearby Roman settlement of Septempeda have several things in common (besides their location). One of them relates to building material – the stone used to build their respective edifices comes from the same quarry, tucked away in the Valle dei Grilli to the west of town. There the huge cavern that opens into the side of the sheer rock face dates back milennia, and you can see the score marks on the rocks from the chiselling work of the stone cutters. History records that the stone and lime from these quarries were highly rated in ancient times, and were transported to other places in Marche and even into Umbria.<br /><br />There are several other smaller caverns in the area that likely served as quarries, but the largest of them is the only one that boasts a Romanesque church at its entrance. It's called the Gallo quarry, after a rooster that was thrown into a hole to try and find two lost monks - it (the rooster) eventually came out at a spring near Camerino, some 20km away. The monks? There's no account of what happened to them. Perhaps they teamed up with two oxen that went into the grotto and were never found again.<br /><br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoQhAzayT-pejokRttNexfJOWRWA4xmQtp9XBMpKpuQqP2Kucv_M0OM0Esv3Tx__mihEuMMc-lpnPqINLi2whyYY3CBOouVqQuE1UZGJZO2BZ6lRZB4dv2ymDVM9a9Q5oS7Cg92FwHHiPx/s1600-h/IMG_4970.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoQhAzayT-pejokRttNexfJOWRWA4xmQtp9XBMpKpuQqP2Kucv_M0OM0Esv3Tx__mihEuMMc-lpnPqINLi2whyYY3CBOouVqQuE1UZGJZO2BZ6lRZB4dv2ymDVM9a9Q5oS7Cg92FwHHiPx/s400/IMG_4970.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5370127779263341762" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;">Although not quite as old as the quarry, the church at the quarry's entrance dates back almost 1,000 years, and covered a far larger area than its crumbling remains now hold on to. At one time an important Benedictine abbey, St. Eustachio in Domora started out life in Lombard times as St. Michael, and over the centuries served as a guest house on this important connection road between San Severino (in the Potenza valley) and Camerino (in the Chienti valley). <br /><br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8jicE_TSRvXemUTsUA0t8ThVBo_FLtCe3nFzN5mgK9SQ2ziaCXqfbtgwRe4GC8MAyGAMH3dcwnhNJZIiZpd1EtQLImU7hU1BEkfm1VOJMGWzouNJodHyLZhWoS3277tI0R5fw4V79EWXb/s1600-h/IMG_4978.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 286px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8jicE_TSRvXemUTsUA0t8ThVBo_FLtCe3nFzN5mgK9SQ2ziaCXqfbtgwRe4GC8MAyGAMH3dcwnhNJZIiZpd1EtQLImU7hU1BEkfm1VOJMGWzouNJodHyLZhWoS3277tI0R5fw4V79EWXb/s400/IMG_4978.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5370127788998010722" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;">Inside the main structure with its large round eye for the rose window is a shrine of sorts in Gothic style, and underneath one can still see the cells which most likely served as living quarters. The “prodigious crucifix” from the abbey is now in the San Lorenzo Abbey in San Severino.<br /><br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpReZnUkpwpAQW30CiigZgjKuX8dRvymfWFAfVYngyoZ3VuVFeMewcP_bDraY4CxdND4i7pfJ97UTkH1C6_XK0u3lfDXQzn4wEwpWxbfjQXFALIDQ5iM9ojLmsPuOg-sWF95CLnOXQ8y0z/s1600-h/IMG_4979.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpReZnUkpwpAQW30CiigZgjKuX8dRvymfWFAfVYngyoZ3VuVFeMewcP_bDraY4CxdND4i7pfJ97UTkH1C6_XK0u3lfDXQzn4wEwpWxbfjQXFALIDQ5iM9ojLmsPuOg-sWF95CLnOXQ8y0z/s400/IMG_4979.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5370127796926144226" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;">Across the river in another cavern are the remains of a circular tower, and all around (especially at this time of year), the burgeoning green tide of vegetation threatens to overcome the ruins. <br /><br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTp8aD0W2hxFbxCpBgRlzeB_qmit2aR2FbnI_rFfzo7evPiosKS39t60oM-X1S9WtWCLJnwEpjoFrWUZP42DJtQ3FEQv80td2NkhUnModLuCusYSG1hh2zKjlIsjvZs1waz67F2ynHUgq3/s1600-h/IMG_4985.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTp8aD0W2hxFbxCpBgRlzeB_qmit2aR2FbnI_rFfzo7evPiosKS39t60oM-X1S9WtWCLJnwEpjoFrWUZP42DJtQ3FEQv80td2NkhUnModLuCusYSG1hh2zKjlIsjvZs1waz67F2ynHUgq3/s400/IMG_4985.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5370129505132011298" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;">A trail – likely the old road to Camerino – leads up through the valley, but it's not frequently used these days, and in the early walking season is overgrown, with brambles and thorns predominating. High up on the western cliffside the constant drone of a huge wasp's nest provides a natural "No Entry" warning to the steep and unstable slopes that reach to the top of the gorge. Against my better judgement, I braved it, but was turned back by a vertical face, and so once again held my breath as I slunk past the thousands of stingers just waiting for a chance to use them ...<br /></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHT-l-LYZZLF9I8XJavt_PL0hFM_aX6E9CJZjAtp3nCDHXwC8PlppzvULzsXN7jWTkyUQAGW2Q7GCrnp8tU1bcPHyZI4qsGPwVNknjOWNRGv1jHMuwkksiW4RbpIHzLxvJb6tlD7Zheaqb/s1600-h/IMG_4997.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHT-l-LYZZLF9I8XJavt_PL0hFM_aX6E9CJZjAtp3nCDHXwC8PlppzvULzsXN7jWTkyUQAGW2Q7GCrnp8tU1bcPHyZI4qsGPwVNknjOWNRGv1jHMuwkksiW4RbpIHzLxvJb6tlD7Zheaqb/s400/IMG_4997.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5370129513270001778" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /></span>Duncan Campbellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09583433367870552523noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5234450172985220661.post-12733998576693528892009-08-03T23:25:00.009+02:002009-08-04T17:51:22.160+02:00Ancona in pictures<span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">Ancona is Le Marche's capital and biggest city. Its history has been linked with maritime traditions and trade since the first settlements as far back as the 8th century BC, but it wasn't until 357 BC that the Greeks established a permanent outpost. Named after the Greek word for "elbow" (<span style="font-style: italic;">ankon</span>) after the shape of its promontory, it became a <span style="font-style: italic;">municipum</span> under the Romans and a base for the fleet ... the first city of the Byzantine Maritime Pentapolis (which also included Rimini, Pesaro, Fano, and Senigallia) ... an independent commune and a maritime republic ... and the largest commercial and fishing port of the modern-day Adriatic. Sections of the port area may be somewhat grimy, but its history emerges through its monuments and museums, with the old and the new sitting comfortably next to each other. Here's a short photographic essay from a trip I did a month ago on a writing assignment.<br /><br /></span></span><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">Faces of Ancona and a musical tradition</span></span><br /></div><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitmb9pANCS0hv3Y6Q92YHVisWWqzoWi7wVJpRPOgDzI0kzQkFjnp0SFvECEw9ygRu6Y8z_dKPTaNjuHpPzBh4L6YYh2UvBuypghv5vfZKrlnRDiofQTLV1a44ataV2DVi8LLroSn7WatUT/s1600-h/IMG_5190.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 250px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitmb9pANCS0hv3Y6Q92YHVisWWqzoWi7wVJpRPOgDzI0kzQkFjnp0SFvECEw9ygRu6Y8z_dKPTaNjuHpPzBh4L6YYh2UvBuypghv5vfZKrlnRDiofQTLV1a44ataV2DVi8LLroSn7WatUT/s400/IMG_5190.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5365856432223733938" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;"> Trajan's Arch built in 115AD </span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">in honour of the Roman Emperor,<br />with the 14th century bell tower framed in its arch.</span></span><br /><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqRnAJNlbaVd6tbkA7ULrOyARArY1kbuGAlcpFUfTXWwi4d5PSiB3R_KsfO3-Vss5SDRf6IKWpkVMKewEMSruuTnjJ3t0ClsSWkSCrJAQdx8KiyCeY_wztMc_Dqij1jNXB0H3SG7ylL6eP/s1600-h/IMG_5235.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 312px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqRnAJNlbaVd6tbkA7ULrOyARArY1kbuGAlcpFUfTXWwi4d5PSiB3R_KsfO3-Vss5SDRf6IKWpkVMKewEMSruuTnjJ3t0ClsSWkSCrJAQdx8KiyCeY_wztMc_Dqij1jNXB0H3SG7ylL6eP/s400/IMG_5235.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5365864293306579490" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;font-size:85%;" >Red marble lion of St. Cyriac's Cathedral</span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">, built on the foundations<br />of the 4th century BC Temple of Aphrodite</span></span><br /></div><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS1N4FzQf1rHPjv0Tz2uoFWdjKR2yh7KZ1dX7xix5XVfTYEJwsSNwWuMdUBp6tjmzvwY-EQeY_cTZhdmtxq26opuxVQYEFl4etnGbtYb43tAvRZ6R7c6uqH4A-e0rjMX8nH3Y1Swb-JA_N/s1600-h/IMG_5214.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 244px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS1N4FzQf1rHPjv0Tz2uoFWdjKR2yh7KZ1dX7xix5XVfTYEJwsSNwWuMdUBp6tjmzvwY-EQeY_cTZhdmtxq26opuxVQYEFl4etnGbtYb43tAvRZ6R7c6uqH4A-e0rjMX8nH3Y1Swb-JA_N/s400/IMG_5214.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5365859469817564226" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-family:verdana;">Romanesque-Gothic portal of </span>St. Cyriac's Cathedral</span><br /></div><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYWhzK3Rmr8CmJoz4LymhgmOaHaTqa6gP79GhatOHgGx5KgHpuapwzze-nzz6jS_-N88pRKiH0ZEaUjyGd1pFgPDSV0gckl1-fO7tVSwRTCHloveV21BZxW28IaiQHr5aDhNyxr0akA-6L/s1600-h/IMG_5215.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 272px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYWhzK3Rmr8CmJoz4LymhgmOaHaTqa6gP79GhatOHgGx5KgHpuapwzze-nzz6jS_-N88pRKiH0ZEaUjyGd1pFgPDSV0gckl1-fO7tVSwRTCHloveV21BZxW28IaiQHr5aDhNyxr0akA-6L/s400/IMG_5215.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5365859476224603730" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">Decorated spouts of the Calamo Fountain,<br />otherwise known as the Fountain of the Thirteen Spouts</span></span><br /></div><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoRSIjvt43L3Ej6TCNM2JJuURW82X7XkByOyaE4v2Rs_xC67JJtSQRkoctS9GmsUn1-jYIJSo3S81TUl-5qEHBAVRO806NtpfujZ0AxRVyTEhcuMXKXyNXVCvtNRivr9G2ttzzPwaDEUZ7/s1600-h/IMG_5222.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 376px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoRSIjvt43L3Ej6TCNM2JJuURW82X7XkByOyaE4v2Rs_xC67JJtSQRkoctS9GmsUn1-jYIJSo3S81TUl-5qEHBAVRO806NtpfujZ0AxRVyTEhcuMXKXyNXVCvtNRivr9G2ttzzPwaDEUZ7/s400/IMG_5222.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5365866798738161026" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuk2N83soio0EH5yxvKAKYxPjsFAJjs82A4E7Chu77nCQLcWsSC_64ofksmfkxK_hwJvR2HFkXAEw005yeW-Uo5-CIHn6PE4Z5WdGdZSjkc1mvI2E34tqO-fNs-NXSaPmaFz6X3Vci_L59/s1600-h/IMG_5219.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 394px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuk2N83soio0EH5yxvKAKYxPjsFAJjs82A4E7Chu77nCQLcWsSC_64ofksmfkxK_hwJvR2HFkXAEw005yeW-Uo5-CIHn6PE4Z5WdGdZSjkc1mvI2E34tqO-fNs-NXSaPmaFz6X3Vci_L59/s400/IMG_5219.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5365864308924230338" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;font-size:85%;" >Statue of Pope Clement XII</span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">, created in 1738 as a token<br />of gratitude for his granting of free port status to the city</span></span><br /><br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix1Nkzl_PMFnAWgJErjLpUeetiRJ7HfZXX2obI7vB7Gu5EYvzzC37S2rZjM0ttVG_u7naoWHocAY8FSPeFFTqOtTwCio6SD7JEhLtWZ_TmfWCc3sUSF0ljBJ4toGvu0SxqvqCmhGNNj0fM/s1600-h/IMG_5217.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix1Nkzl_PMFnAWgJErjLpUeetiRJ7HfZXX2obI7vB7Gu5EYvzzC37S2rZjM0ttVG_u7naoWHocAY8FSPeFFTqOtTwCio6SD7JEhLtWZ_TmfWCc3sUSF0ljBJ4toGvu0SxqvqCmhGNNj0fM/s400/IMG_5217.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5365861091176881170" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">Blending the ancient and the modern - an Emperor and a Greek god</span></span><br /></div><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxUgD4vLSCet6hLUvRrP90_Q0cbIUFvVd-730hNCSfQ2xIil0tkzP7VzS1Z9Dg_GYtb8wb165ggY3zN8PHMVryaevyxG-mMJdnDk5MeSXvhiqfI2YmS5YPeNntipjg-F4VWlbjFtBEOStF/s1600-h/IMG_5225.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 323px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxUgD4vLSCet6hLUvRrP90_Q0cbIUFvVd-730hNCSfQ2xIil0tkzP7VzS1Z9Dg_GYtb8wb165ggY3zN8PHMVryaevyxG-mMJdnDk5MeSXvhiqfI2YmS5YPeNntipjg-F4VWlbjFtBEOStF/s400/IMG_5225.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5365861093170137890" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">Silo art in the port</span></span><br /></div><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigOG7PYoH8AQOZ8Xk5CPXKwmDSBuAXERra0OcDcsXezmbxWpY7MulaFbjU-l9PNHErjYF7OF1l2xyeDYi8h1cJ3dJj7HXm1rjIPyLKqiIZ2q-3z6Q_r5eObhE98O4t9Hi7UWNhYZmmJAgD/s1600-h/IMG_5232.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 314px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigOG7PYoH8AQOZ8Xk5CPXKwmDSBuAXERra0OcDcsXezmbxWpY7MulaFbjU-l9PNHErjYF7OF1l2xyeDYi8h1cJ3dJj7HXm1rjIPyLKqiIZ2q-3z6Q_r5eObhE98O4t9Hi7UWNhYZmmJAgD/s400/IMG_5232.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5365861098816892434" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">Colourful facade of a residential building</span></span><br /></div><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgib8DajDplgggHk2EB0h6wBsUZcu3ViCHT5vc8_ttTIJpQv5DfkH79qy86IK1qHUpvM-sF9s_R3OSeAVEPbr7ip6V5IGHGoGYSUhzoau_t0V-gcPg_lGhJcmgNw7C66qMLVFom12oCaTI-/s1600-h/IMG_5206.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 283px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgib8DajDplgggHk2EB0h6wBsUZcu3ViCHT5vc8_ttTIJpQv5DfkH79qy86IK1qHUpvM-sF9s_R3OSeAVEPbr7ip6V5IGHGoGYSUhzoau_t0V-gcPg_lGhJcmgNw7C66qMLVFom12oCaTI-/s400/IMG_5206.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5365856449252828162" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">Seven centuries - the 14th cetury bell tower and the dome of the<br />18th century Church of Pellegrino and Teresa (the barfooted Carmelites)<br />are joined by a gilded group of recent creation</span></span><br /></div><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXM1hish3wq3Iv8hNSMrDb6ReXnf0XwCM_kAs_Yb93AVr6_gwYj8ChLc7kBC4CQLJwuBvUiiHMFhp_fFJJ1qs5BJGYVXc1zSyTLZMBy-Vvu_saAJ0yV-K9mfq7aAerAfMjWUk4GLUXteyz/s1600-h/IMG_5202.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 256px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXM1hish3wq3Iv8hNSMrDb6ReXnf0XwCM_kAs_Yb93AVr6_gwYj8ChLc7kBC4CQLJwuBvUiiHMFhp_fFJJ1qs5BJGYVXc1zSyTLZMBy-Vvu_saAJ0yV-K9mfq7aAerAfMjWUk4GLUXteyz/s400/IMG_5202.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5365856441244280178" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">Section of the Porta Pia, grand entrance to the town, completed in 1789</span></span><br /></div><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmfBq-wGOkOp2r1RYNBcE93Zz5lurqiGjCXC9r3TfCjgGyRidTT3-6L_zNJ-RGXwIKAO9bPhr-GWo56wsW3NpuNr5dx0GtEq1k59NmqagJaZ-WUZKiS4YY2R6w1oXpb9P4lijL80KddfQH/s1600-h/IMG_5229.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmfBq-wGOkOp2r1RYNBcE93Zz5lurqiGjCXC9r3TfCjgGyRidTT3-6L_zNJ-RGXwIKAO9bPhr-GWo56wsW3NpuNr5dx0GtEq1k59NmqagJaZ-WUZKiS4YY2R6w1oXpb9P4lijL80KddfQH/s400/IMG_5229.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5365866808553316690" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><br /></span></span><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">Church of the Holy Sacrament</span></span><span style="font-family:verdana;">, built in 1538 and rebuilt in the 18th century</span></span><br /></div><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi97PSdaPvR-WjIm7UFY__p75LxySrpEqYxjCMYNwbriG1OYcjx1hOaxfHQfp3TyBMfm2_Usaj7CnMu3_oU2Zeviz5P0sYRcQ7qIJsp1U8IBimp15U5HK76KV7a48VqZhZdWz3DHBWxFwlc/s1600-h/IMG_5191.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi97PSdaPvR-WjIm7UFY__p75LxySrpEqYxjCMYNwbriG1OYcjx1hOaxfHQfp3TyBMfm2_Usaj7CnMu3_oU2Zeviz5P0sYRcQ7qIJsp1U8IBimp15U5HK76KV7a48VqZhZdWz3DHBWxFwlc/s400/IMG_5191.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5365866803513172386" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">Bell Tower and Cathedral</span></span><br /></div><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaeJMNV9tWAqhGWk8mocGN99v5GFw9lo6aOB7oiJIe2ImrPWMmTHdM-7qTQq47C5FeF3Kr3M957760rwOWk9skT-Ix7J7oZedjh0jo9v2RodRhPvitCU9P1Qv4Gw9rBtbT-XBCnp1_YXfY/s1600-h/IMG_5207.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaeJMNV9tWAqhGWk8mocGN99v5GFw9lo6aOB7oiJIe2ImrPWMmTHdM-7qTQq47C5FeF3Kr3M957760rwOWk9skT-Ix7J7oZedjh0jo9v2RodRhPvitCU9P1Qv4Gw9rBtbT-XBCnp1_YXfY/s400/IMG_5207.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5365859463742020018" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;font-size:85%;" >Trajan's Arch framing </span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">the bell tower and cathedral.</span></span><br /></div><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5QURMbiFaomF4hhxBNDMKiFGjggpEf1zZoW24OA4V46zNQc06CEMcTkOQGrSCO1zpwR3hbyxVnzfulJm7QyYzeVQDzhXtMMUU5uUFqr0JYt0vRp2ES7WKH7tSqSFu_YgQ_8SKcJLd7W87/s1600-h/IMG_5239.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 304px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5QURMbiFaomF4hhxBNDMKiFGjggpEf1zZoW24OA4V46zNQc06CEMcTkOQGrSCO1zpwR3hbyxVnzfulJm7QyYzeVQDzhXtMMUU5uUFqr0JYt0vRp2ES7WKH7tSqSFu_YgQ_8SKcJLd7W87/s400/IMG_5239.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5365864303618800770" border="0" /></a>Duncan Campbellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09583433367870552523noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5234450172985220661.post-3752610166060224032009-07-17T10:41:00.001+02:002009-07-17T10:44:19.487+02:00The Hidden Gems of Italy’s Best-Kept Secret<span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">For a recent article I had published on the Dream of Italy web site, click <a href="http://www.dreamofitaly.com/public/704.cfm">here</a>.</span></span>Duncan Campbellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09583433367870552523noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5234450172985220661.post-68605397515602830252009-07-08T16:23:00.006+02:002009-07-20T10:56:39.050+02:00An adaptable stage<span style=";font-family:Verdana;font-size:85%;" >The Renaissance had a major influence on Italian, European, and even world culture back in the 15<sup>th</sup> and 16<sup>th</sup> centuries. But it wasn’t only in the fields of the arts, humanities, and sciences, it also played a significant role in the development of popular sport in Italy. Born in the noble palaces of Tuscany, and based on a combination of tennis and an ancient Greco-Roman game, <i>il pallone col bracciale</i> became the most popular sport of north and central Italy from the late 17<sup>th</sup> century until as late as around 1930. Using spiked wooden armlets, a leather ball was pounded back and forth between two teams of three, with a high wall on one side permitting deflection back into the field of play.<br /><br />Such was its popularity that it spawned full-time professionals, massive followings – Goethe wrote about it, Leopardi eulogized it – particularly in the Piedmont, Emilia-Romagna, and Le Marche, and special courts called <i>sferisteri</i> (singular <i>sferisterio</i> = ball court) were built throughout its popular realm. With legendary players coming out of Le Marche – notably Treia – it was natural to build such a <i>sferisterio</i> here, and in 1820 one hundred citizens raised the money, with construction starting in October according to the designs of one Salvatore Innocenzi. However, these were soon supplanted by those of a young architect from San Severino Marche, Ireneo Aleandri, and it was finally inaugurated on September 5<sup>th</sup>, 1829.</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /><a style="font-family: verdana;" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAB4gcqrRiu0hOHdsv7tj5Hdu4CUNeAjemqiscbaXiGrFzAs4QgKQVF_XeNT2SOMHtrfOFT4JCvZIGdsX4LO6xWhzit0fUqQSk4ubBCR_GXZl9OnHgroqhToLiwEXpH8VCgD_ydfsj0jUs/s1600-h/Sferisterio+bracciale.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 251px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAB4gcqrRiu0hOHdsv7tj5Hdu4CUNeAjemqiscbaXiGrFzAs4QgKQVF_XeNT2SOMHtrfOFT4JCvZIGdsX4LO6xWhzit0fUqQSk4ubBCR_GXZl9OnHgroqhToLiwEXpH8VCgD_ydfsj0jUs/s400/Sferisterio+bracciale.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5356101347540578546" border="0" /></a> </span><span style=";font-family:Verdana;font-size:85%;" >The prescribed dimensions for the high wall that borders one side of a <i>sferisterio</i> required a height of between 14 and 20 metres (Macerata’s is 18m), and a length of around 90 metres (Macerata’s is 88m).<span style=""> </span>It also needed to be on the west side of the court to prevent the players from being disturbed by the rays of a setting sun (the game was played in the afternoon). The arena was also used for other activities such as circuses and an Italian form of bullfighting, which was a popular Papal State “sport”.<br /><br />Upon the decline of <i>pallone col bracciale’s</i> popularity, the citizens of Macerata turned their attention to putting the arena to other uses, and in 1921, a group led by Pieralberto Conti, with funding provided by the soprano Francisca Solari, staged <i>Aida</i> – it was a resounding success, with over 70,000 seeing the production. However, rain ruined the following season’s production of <i>La Gioconda</i>, and following this failure opera in the arena stopped. Save for a few highly successful concerts in the late ’20s and early ’30s by Le Marche’s adored tenor Beniamino Gigli, the Sferisterio stood operatically idle until 1967, when Carlo Perucci from San Benedetto del Tronto breathed new life into it through his <i>Circuito lirico delle Marche</i> initiative. A new stage was built – it’s now one of the largest in Europe – new lighting was installed, and today’s annual opera season was born with the acclaimed production on August 3<sup>rd</sup> 1967 of Verdi’s <i>Otello</i>. Today it’s one of the most important on the Italian operatic calendar, and is arguably Le Marche’s (and certainly Macerata’s) leading cultural event of the year.<o:p></o:p></span><p></p> <p style="margin-bottom: 4.3pt; font-family: verdana;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhleNKDaqTtphacVfTDCdnh2zZQ7irlqoyST6W2mmFQs7csiuyFsi0Uk2zyfVADp7CLKYq0Z3Y4JJXoyjdj6GbIA5wq27dP-Gq9xeRcwscSbmqMuXLwOVepdRrRIfREdw9QXOGtnmXRf7hG/s1600-h/Sferisterio+stage.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 148px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhleNKDaqTtphacVfTDCdnh2zZQ7irlqoyST6W2mmFQs7csiuyFsi0Uk2zyfVADp7CLKYq0Z3Y4JJXoyjdj6GbIA5wq27dP-Gq9xeRcwscSbmqMuXLwOVepdRrRIfREdw9QXOGtnmXRf7hG/s400/Sferisterio+stage.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5356103110169715586" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;">In 1992 the <i>Eredi dei Cento Consorti</i> (Heirs of the Hundred Consorts, a civil society), the provincial administration, and the associated <i>comuni</i> joined forces to form <i>Associazione Arena Sferisterio</i>, which today is responsible for the annual Sferisterio Opera Festival (also known as Macerata Opera). Over the years it’s attracted leading singers such as Luciano Pavarotti and Placido Domingo, and directors such as Ken Russell, Franco Zeffirelli, and Macerata’s own Dante Ferretti.<br /><br />Since 2006, artistic director Pier Luigi Pizzi has introduced a common theme in the operas selected for each season, in 2009 selecting “deceit” to follow the previous years’ themes of “an initiating journey”, “the game of the mighty”, and “seduction”.<span style=""> </span>“Among the multiple meanings of the word ‘deceit’,” says Pizzi, “we want to analyze those deeper and more painful ones: behind every deceit is a vital tension, and the same sense of life is provided by the constant presence of death.<span style=""> </span>Don Giovanni consciously makes light of death, but he cannot escape the eternal damnation that he is destined for.<span style=""> </span>Madame Butterfly is an innocent victim of the deceit contrived by the cynical Pinkerton that leads to her suicide.<span style=""> </span>Only through death is she able to regain her lost honour, through cathartic purification.<span style=""> </span>Violetta (<i>La Traviata</i>) is deceived by Alfredo Germont’s hypocritical father and yields to his shameful blackmail, accepting with dignity her tragic and desperate destiny. Her only redemption is death itself – sure, inexorable, even consolatory.<span style=""> </span>Also the contemporary opera, an annual event initiated with my commission – which for this edition will be Camus’ <i>Le Malentendu</i> (The Misunderstanding), a text of great drama and topical interest – adheres well to the underlying theme through a dramatic core that suggests a dizzying intertwining of illusion and death.<span style=""> </span>Deceptive obsessions cross the centuries, as in the culminating piece of the festival, Händel’s oratorio <i>The Triumph of Time and Truth</i>.”<o:p></o:p><p></p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0.1in; font-family: verdana;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWAL8xPy1YI1XMIHqhnEFJPqbeaeipU0rEPelQQIkqe-XIQabMPzn7hd4gaYkHq0UhjPV1zArHAEOfSOWWkyMfG_1jkQGkRqT4AL29QjbkLDWjW_ZWZNnBiL2KOo3hG8GHQjY-S1T9cFaz/s1600-h/Sferisterio.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 391px; height: 302px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWAL8xPy1YI1XMIHqhnEFJPqbeaeipU0rEPelQQIkqe-XIQabMPzn7hd4gaYkHq0UhjPV1zArHAEOfSOWWkyMfG_1jkQGkRqT4AL29QjbkLDWjW_ZWZNnBiL2KOo3hG8GHQjY-S1T9cFaz/s400/Sferisterio.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5356103107338653922" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;">2009 Programme:<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><b><span style="">Don Giovanni</span></b></span><span style="font-size:85%;"> – Mozart<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><i><span style="">Sferisterio – Jul 23, 28, 30</span></i></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-size:85%;">Director: Pier Luigi Pizzi<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-size:85%;">Conductor: Riccardo Frizza<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><b><span style="">Madama Butterfly</span></b></span><span style="font-size:85%;"> – Puccini<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><i><span style="">Sferisterio – Jul 24, 31; Aug 2, 5, 7</span></i></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-size:85%;">Director: Pier Luigi Pizzi<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-size:85%;">Conductor: Daniele Calligari<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><b><span style="">La Traviata</span></b></span><span style="font-size:85%;"> – Verdi<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><i><span style="">Sferisterio – Jul 25; Aug 1, 4, 6, 8</span></i></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-size:85%;">Director: Massimo Gasparon<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-size:85%;">Conductor: Michele Mariotti<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><b><span style="">Le Malentendu</span></b></span><span style="font-size:85%;"> – Matteo d’Amico<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><i><span style="">CineTeatro Italia – Jul 26, 29</span></i></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-size:85%;">Director: Saverio Marconi<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-size:85%;">Conductor: Guillaume Tourniaire<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><b><span style="">The Triumph of Time and Truth</span></b></span><span style="font-size:85%;"> – Händel<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><i><span style="">Auditorium San Paolo – Aug 9</span></i></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><o:p></o:p></span></p> <p style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-size:85%;">Director: Pier Luigi Pizzi<o:p></o:p></span></p> <p style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;"><span style=";font-family:Verdana;font-size:9;" ><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">Conductor: Dan Rapoport</span></span><o:p></o:p></span></p> </span></p>Duncan Campbellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09583433367870552523noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5234450172985220661.post-46054596116927825732009-06-12T14:39:00.004+02:002009-07-20T10:57:20.128+02:00Caldarola's cardinals<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1deU-vhn0MOFSOrperIIq6jN_zsm2zzV1WQMFqAlrYNyAmhtWLBXFSFsSZdebfrYKHTw1XgUmjZk9JJxb1iDabf-WZTohUs0_yG8ZCxcdoBIOKqZELsHeZmfpc8NzcLfRzBsB6e90mvms/s1600-h/la+stanza+del+paradiso.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 244px; height: 159px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1deU-vhn0MOFSOrperIIq6jN_zsm2zzV1WQMFqAlrYNyAmhtWLBXFSFsSZdebfrYKHTw1XgUmjZk9JJxb1iDabf-WZTohUs0_yG8ZCxcdoBIOKqZELsHeZmfpc8NzcLfRzBsB6e90mvms/s400/la+stanza+del+paradiso.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5346422123429003634" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-style: italic;">La Stanza del Paradiso</span> (the Paradise Room) is aptly named – it’s an exquisite jewel of ornate, animated frescoes that supplant reality with an atmosphere of rich colour and fabled history. Giovanni Evangelista Pallotta used to meditate here in the <span style="font-style: italic;">palazzo</span> he built in the 1500s. Such</span> <span style="font-family:verdana;">surrounds cannot have b</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">een anything less than inspirational, and it must have been hard to drag himself away.</span></span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">But drag himself away he did, to the prelate courts of Rome, where he became a cardinal in 1587 under Pope Sixtus V. And thus started a family legacy, with first his nephew and then two subsequent descendants reaching the rank of cardinal over a period lasting until 1834. Between them, the Pallotta cardinals participated in the election of 12 popes, held sway over prominent symbols of the Catholic faith including St. Peter’s and Loreto, and rubbed shoulders with royalty, intellectuals, and the artistic talents of their day. </span> <span style="font-family:verdana;">Today their legacy prevails through the grand edifices that dominate Caldarola – <span style="font-style: italic;">il Castello Pallotta</span> (Pallotta Castle) and <span style="font-style: italic;">il Palazzo dei Cardinali Pallotta</span> (Palace of the Pallotta Cardinals).</span></span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL9TqbXqFFogXIlly5SKeaLX0oFyHoUpZQ0e3BH7cmlskrXymrXO-EHYRS6KzjFgi80xFQqKrABT25wgK_YLcFRGnJftjeIJEVhCYePHIau6leT2rFmoJFL9w9e82w97tBW1aqqu-v_i_5/s1600-h/Stanze+1.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 203px; height: 268px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL9TqbXqFFogXIlly5SKeaLX0oFyHoUpZQ0e3BH7cmlskrXymrXO-EHYRS6KzjFgi80xFQqKrABT25wgK_YLcFRGnJftjeIJEVhCYePHIau6leT2rFmoJFL9w9e82w97tBW1aqqu-v_i_5/s400/Stanze+1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5346422129921479762" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">It’s in the latter that one of Le Marche’s most prominent 2009 art exhibitions is being held – <span style="font-style: italic;">Le Stanze </span></span><span style="font-family:verdana;"><span style="font-style: italic;">del Cardinale</span> (The Rooms of the Cardinal), a study in Baroque magnificence featuringCaravaggio, Guido Reni, Guercino, and Mattia Preti. </span> <span style="font-family:verdana;">The collection was the property of the second Pallotta prelate, Giovanni Battista Maria (nephew of Giovanni Evangelista), who was appointed cardinal in 1631 under Pope Urban VIII.<br /><br />Having studied the arts and humanities in Perugia, Giovanni Battista entered the Pontifical Roman Seminary where he studied philosophy and law. As Pope Urban VIII’s representative, he travelled to Portugal and Austria, and was made legate of the newly-acquired papal state of Ferrara in 1631. Being in such an elevated position in the church afforded him the opportunity of </span><span style="font-family:verdana;">commissioning and acquiring an impressive collection from the leading artists of the time, which he proudly displayed to luminaries who stopped over in Caldarola on their pilgrimages between Rome and Loreto. Among them were Queen Christina of Sweden and Prince Casimir of Poland.</span></span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">However, his pastime had its costs, particularly in a 17th-century Italy that was experiencing severe</span> <span style="font-family:verdana;">economic struggles and general decline – when he died in 1668, the paintings had to be sold to settle his debts. As a result of the dispersion of his collection, the exhibition was compiled by studying the cardinal’s inventories, tracking down each painting, and securing loans from a variety of public institutions and private collections, including the Rome’s Borghese Gallery, the </span><span style="font-family:verdana;">National Gallery of Ancient Art, and the Doria Pamphilj Gallery; Florence’s Palazzo Pitti; the National Art Gallery of Bologna; the National Gallery of Capodimonte in Naples; and Genoa’s Palazzo Rosso. Where the original work could not be traced, another by the same artist of a similar subject has replaced it.</span> </span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyEZB_B7q-bdMvoez8b6xeXvpifvm2idc09u3NS9qNG9EU6E5P2-3h4swVBpCLtLLSiwj7YOSLJ3lRZFTJGaZ9uJgITJmIK1gY-CsuOcVQUlXGnDOFdxXJmSe4ASokt-zIxOlW6qYMBMYu/s1600-h/Stanze+2-1.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 222px; height: 306px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyEZB_B7q-bdMvoez8b6xeXvpifvm2idc09u3NS9qNG9EU6E5P2-3h4swVBpCLtLLSiwj7YOSLJ3lRZFTJGaZ9uJgITJmIK1gY-CsuOcVQUlXGnDOFdxXJmSe4ASokt-zIxOlW6qYMBMYu/s400/Stanze+2-1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5346425607508115058" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">Amongst the more than 60 works on display is Guercino’s (so named because he was crosseyed)</span> <span style="font-family:verdana;">grand <span style="font-style: italic;">Expulsion of the Merchants from the Temple</span> – which was restored specially for this </span><span style="font-family:verdana;">exhibit, along with several other works; several paintings inspired by <span style="font-style: italic;">Jerusalem Delivered</span>, </span><span style="font-family:verdana;">Torquato Tasso’s 16th century epic – Giovanni Evangelista was his official “protector”; and several that reveal Giovanni Battista’s appreciation of the female form – it seems that 17th century Italy did not frown on prelates admiring feminine nudity.</span> <span style="font-family:verdana;"><br /><br />This is truly one of the pre-eminent events on the Italian art calendar, and should not be missed. Not only can you appreciate some of the finest Baroque art around, you can travel through Giovanni Evangelista’s paradise as you do so …</span> <span style="font-family:verdana;"><br /><br />Le Stanze del Cardinale</span> <span style="font-family:verdana;"><br />Palazzo dei Cardinali Pallotta, Caldarola</span> <span style="font-family:verdana;"><br />May 23 – Nov 12, 2009</span><br /><a href="http://www.lestanzedelcardinale.it/"><span style="font-family:verdana;">www.lestanzedelcardinale.it</span></a></span>Duncan Campbellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09583433367870552523noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5234450172985220661.post-376844280392127002009-06-02T13:57:00.011+02:002009-06-02T16:41:36.178+02:00Stepping back into the middle ages<span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;" >Even in shorts and a T-shirt, I was still sweltering, regularly looking for a break from the sun under one of the piazza's arched arcades. So how it was for the procession participants in their heavy medieval costumes, I can't imagine. To their credit, none of them showed any discomfort, and indeed few of them appeared to be perspiring.<br /><br />Last weekend Camerino opened the medieval pageant season in our neck of the woods with their <span style="font-style: italic;">Corsa alla Spada e Palio</span>, a 10-day journey back to the days of pomp and ceremony when the powerful Da Varano family ruled their papal dukedom for over 200 years. The festival dates back to the early 13th century, when it was decided to introduce pageantry and friendly but prestigious community competition into the normally solemn remembrance of the town’s patron saint, Venanzio.<br /><br />The medieval festival was resurrected in 1982, keeping the centuries-old traditions largely intact. At the heart of the festivities is a sumptuous procession involving the three divisions (<span style="font-style: italic;">terzieri</span>) of the town – Muralto, Sossanta, and Mezzo – dressed in full medieval regalia, who on May 17 converge from their various quarters on to the San Venanzio basilica for an evocative candle ceremony. The saint was persecuted for his faith and subjected to a succession of tortures, including whipping, being hanged from his feet, having his jaw broken, and being thrown to the lions. According to historical legend, he miraculously emerged from each of them unharmed, giving his faith credence and prompting the conversion of many pagans to Christianity. He was finally martyred during the reign of Emperor Decio, when in May 251 AD he was beheaded with 10 other Christians, and buried outside the town walls.<br /><br />During the 10 days of festivities, the town’s three divisions take part in a series of competitions, with the main event being the <span style="font-style: italic;">Corsa alla Spada</span> (a foot race for the esteemed sword). There is also archery, flag waving, drumming, and a variety of other musical and entertainment events.<br /><br />Food naturally also plays a major role, and a number of <span style="font-style: italic;">taverne</span> are set up by each of the <span style="font-style: italic;">terzieri</span>, serving medieval fare in an authentic atmosphere with hosts dressed in period costume.<br /><br />Here's a selection of photos from the day's culminating procession, along with the <span style="font-style: italic;">Corsa</span> itself. (Click on the pictures to launch full-size versions of them.)</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwb2MlvGarbW_-eVWx2eKUQFss-aU0jVpTbYI4PIC0074uhEync5iv9uMdi5V6-_4g8Ol3yqQm_qWJo-b69a9QV4-ZCinw9GRYFr14NfFkkgNT3m4vCbtiB4Tanj27cqSdN_5ny-V0rDe2/s1600-h/01-IMG_5379.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 271px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwb2MlvGarbW_-eVWx2eKUQFss-aU0jVpTbYI4PIC0074uhEync5iv9uMdi5V6-_4g8Ol3yqQm_qWJo-b69a9QV4-ZCinw9GRYFr14NfFkkgNT3m4vCbtiB4Tanj27cqSdN_5ny-V0rDe2/s400/01-IMG_5379.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5342732711988065234" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTtkyOOH9sPqmG9MW1mPC8X2R0RUAdy4Xfw7gs_bVuKFbHVHtVaGgR0sMWjS1rb31JYPOOjkHOlJzxu5MlwReqKuAkdVhI0R3zUSnsIoxiSaZWBvGi-9WUJtJHSelAZBhovIsa5tDHma0m/s1600-h/02-IMG_5392.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 236px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTtkyOOH9sPqmG9MW1mPC8X2R0RUAdy4Xfw7gs_bVuKFbHVHtVaGgR0sMWjS1rb31JYPOOjkHOlJzxu5MlwReqKuAkdVhI0R3zUSnsIoxiSaZWBvGi-9WUJtJHSelAZBhovIsa5tDHma0m/s400/02-IMG_5392.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5342732709658195778" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgNkxEXrjN_HYviQDhBuQT-vQvKalv7iVAXBBP_VhHhcA4Eflgd19qDwUBpi1PRvNIj3aC5P5mbEm7VUSOelR5aevhrujdEdi3TX2yOq56l_1N3rTk400sfCw6w2gdC1bThHbKUOWlrFsl/s1600-h/03-IMG_5367.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 298px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgNkxEXrjN_HYviQDhBuQT-vQvKalv7iVAXBBP_VhHhcA4Eflgd19qDwUBpi1PRvNIj3aC5P5mbEm7VUSOelR5aevhrujdEdi3TX2yOq56l_1N3rTk400sfCw6w2gdC1bThHbKUOWlrFsl/s400/03-IMG_5367.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5342732706136022610" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghLjUnTlN_zHD5VyyDX8la8EgVGVlRAOnd6eWEkSyUVtBhjJagi4PAkc1enayLMLk25a40OwNN2Ib3ReE6dkcvb-rcd6gEvvQOm2MENeuUen0zRkxq1k2eBcK2YnDujDeJf_oQrK7-TRzR/s1600-h/04-IMG_5537.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; 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display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYTJX6TBfie5vgvDaFGyMNTUEdVZchgrwgkUI8PzIreSNxegJoGAFvsgB0ktbXuFeF1RmCD2mEZiUq_Z3FON_rO6eVS4AlTn_MWgTzn4ZJeDK5TRFZbAFULiMRvBlCp0vs5htYw70M_EUI/s400/10-IMG_5532.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5342722479862298450" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBtDG5YDEeX4WbqNnX3fXT-lRQ-mZGMms9RY7NfYppWv6QrC4QAOFalIXLhxxkHg_bR3h-Gts9AJjd1lbYYzD7-qbYmTIf7_ZpExrpnCkzVfqAmYD4AVn3NOZjVaZDpjZoM-IGOPq5RBGQ/s1600-h/11-IMG_5431.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 377px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBtDG5YDEeX4WbqNnX3fXT-lRQ-mZGMms9RY7NfYppWv6QrC4QAOFalIXLhxxkHg_bR3h-Gts9AJjd1lbYYzD7-qbYmTIf7_ZpExrpnCkzVfqAmYD4AVn3NOZjVaZDpjZoM-IGOPq5RBGQ/s400/11-IMG_5431.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5342722475807925218" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyBglBukq3CV0lujgBHpmDSK53VtFyEgE06oC5-BVWTA62d-yb-xmcxpWaapOYzLKA2UnmIUohbYTh8rKPUXCDwqW3CbvuHR1ppI2le6ZvUhDUxeByCEzKbTZtthkFyh2CzLtFHbE_Fg1L/s1600-h/12-IMG_5547.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 212px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyBglBukq3CV0lujgBHpmDSK53VtFyEgE06oC5-BVWTA62d-yb-xmcxpWaapOYzLKA2UnmIUohbYTh8rKPUXCDwqW3CbvuHR1ppI2le6ZvUhDUxeByCEzKbTZtthkFyh2CzLtFHbE_Fg1L/s400/12-IMG_5547.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5342722468538839826" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwDbmgnxU8_J63AbsFDoHMRXwR2Onz5zGeY4lYvlHNNOIWJ4oDuZfoUb6ruq1JSmh_pW5J26mCAcEH0Q3XH_r7JDTgFR8C5md6LjwHkrR4NJDIc4ag_BEQcahbBio0BKnpSDJQ1nU99yA5/s1600-h/13-IMG_5553.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwDbmgnxU8_J63AbsFDoHMRXwR2Onz5zGeY4lYvlHNNOIWJ4oDuZfoUb6ruq1JSmh_pW5J26mCAcEH0Q3XH_r7JDTgFR8C5md6LjwHkrR4NJDIc4ag_BEQcahbBio0BKnpSDJQ1nU99yA5/s400/13-IMG_5553.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5342708997612998978" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPZJleZcykll3MriR9nZ6U6yHO2KEBj1POQbWv2GNcd2szylIIdb54T9iMxj0_Wm-mYyS6DeP7G-GVRer37CG7VWpInabi7WFEYXQ41prKAbEfrtqW938VXoZZ3cjlcSICquNRfzgMfqxx/s1600-h/14-IMG_5583.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 297px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPZJleZcykll3MriR9nZ6U6yHO2KEBj1POQbWv2GNcd2szylIIdb54T9iMxj0_Wm-mYyS6DeP7G-GVRer37CG7VWpInabi7WFEYXQ41prKAbEfrtqW938VXoZZ3cjlcSICquNRfzgMfqxx/s400/14-IMG_5583.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5342708993859549874" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjCG7MfjIwCgPllPApVvxOjrYpvreUfjYpDN_5JCYUWJ_A-3rMz97_aP2Cs3XxDtXfN0b1RjN9uoWfJQWu-5P13ULs2Ek_2NNjuYdsej1A_Ia2XlMM5P0uEAe0ZN8Cc99f_frRo9MWi-Pc/s1600-h/15-IMG_5562.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 321px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjCG7MfjIwCgPllPApVvxOjrYpvreUfjYpDN_5JCYUWJ_A-3rMz97_aP2Cs3XxDtXfN0b1RjN9uoWfJQWu-5P13ULs2Ek_2NNjuYdsej1A_Ia2XlMM5P0uEAe0ZN8Cc99f_frRo9MWi-Pc/s400/15-IMG_5562.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5342708988123278994" border="0" /></a>Duncan Campbellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09583433367870552523noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5234450172985220661.post-40819036353005393572009-05-26T09:51:00.003+02:002009-05-26T11:13:22.266+02:00An uncommon passion<span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Silvano has a passion for food. This may seem like a strange thing to say in a nation of gastronomes, but his is an uncommon passion - medieval food. He likes to make it, serve it to people, and tell them about it. In a region with the best-preserved medieval architecture and heritage in Italy, he's the perfect - and rather rare - culinary complement to its historians and cultural doyens (who themselves are plentiful and yet somewhat "latent".)<br /><br />He's taken his penchant a step further too by housing his restaurant in a renovated castle, tucked away in a small <span style="font-style: italic;">borgo</span> (hamlet) of steep cobbled alleys that contort themselves around and through the structure, creating new discoveries around each twisted corner. If you didn't know where the restaurant was, it would be quite a challenge to find it. But then that's the thing about <span style="font-style: italic;">Il Picciolo di Rame</span> - you don't stumble upon it, it's a deliberate act, you go there because that's where you're going.<br /><br />Twelve courses based on ancient recipes are introduced with the meticulous detail of the historian and the deep respect of a man of the country, starting off with the most simple of concepts - <span style="font-style: italic;">bruschetta</span> drizzled with olive oil. That's it, no other topping. But this is not just your ordinary olive oil (which I'm sure <span style="font-style: italic;">marchigiani</span> would assert does not exist here) - it's a carefully selected type of olive grown in a very specific area. Three, four, eight-hundred year old recipes follow - a medieval matrimonial dish, wild fennel, a single giant hand-made raviolo, a small type of lentil from the high-altitude Piano Grande with 15 different herbs, goat with wild herbs ...<br /><br />Silvano said we were finished eating ... and then promptly brought out dessert. You walk out sated, intrigued, thankful, but not overfull, thanks to the modest portions. <br /><br />And as with any Italian encounter, you just never know what might happen. First, I discovered that his grandfather was born in a house I can see from my own. Then he brought out a wine from a little-known <span style="font-style: italic;">vinicola</span> some distance away (but still in Le Marche), whose owner - a count - I'd interviewed a few months ago, and which is probably the only regional winery to make kosher wine (and export it to New York). (Silvano didn't know this.) The goat he served spawned discussions of goat's milk, a hard-to-find item much sought-after by my wife, and so I walked out with a bottle of fresh goat's milk, with a promise of more if we would just stop by his house when we needed it ...<br /><br />As with most special eating experiences, it's not just about the food - it's about the whole process: the love, the care, the interest ... and the prospect of making a new friend. It's a symbol of Italy. In Le Marche, you're never far from such experiences - you just need to know where to go ...<br /></span></span>Duncan Campbellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09583433367870552523noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5234450172985220661.post-61578099830889802242009-05-15T19:15:00.009+02:002009-05-16T08:28:39.656+02:00Spring in the Sibillini<span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">May is perhaps the best month up in the Sibillini mountains - brisk breezes team up with the spring warmth to require a well-packed backpack, with sweaters and sunhats often in use within half an hour of each other. Snow still clings to the peaks and makes getting to the upper reaches impossible on some roads. The newness of the season also means that only the dedicated - like us - are up there, so on most occasions you have the place to yourself.<br /><br />And then there are the wildflowers. It's one of the primary calls of going up there (along with the best air in Italy and the feeling of freedom). I can't tell you what they're called, and I can't remember which ones bloom when, I just know I'm an ardent follower. It's a changing scene too - in a matter of weeks the characters and colours of the wildflower world will be changing, and again a couple of weeks after that. These constant shifts of the floral display are always a matter of wonder and admiration, and I'll never tire of it.<br /><br />This past weekend we went up to our favourite spot, walked up to "our" ridge that looks east, north, and west for miles, with the Sibillini ridges stretching in blue waves to the south. We followed our usual habit of ambling up and slumbering silently in the sun, cool breeze requiring a pullover, and then drifting aimlessly over the earthy domes with ever-changing views over Le Marche and into Umbria and Lazio. It's magificent.<br /><br />This time I spotted a grove of evergreens a little way down the ridge and so we stopped on our way down. Another world - a pine forest, not a dominant feature around here. Lush carpet of cool grass, an invititation into a verdant hideaway, and yet another perspective in a landscape of multiple personalities.<br /><br />That's the thing about these mountains - there's always something new to explore, always a little corner that we haven't discovered before. It'll never get old.<br /><br />Below are some pictures from the day. I should perhaps know better than to post pictures of flowers, but how can I wax so lyrical without giving an idea of what I'm talking about. (Click on the picture to launch a full-size version.)</span></span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0QxQMM6TK6G0_btDUzNIwWidkozV-kzoS-xRQnn7pWzJb3Tg850-PVR46M-b8OdeoKEz-X83G-69XoGdI_1pQDRjed-nOAx7poeVCQ8N1kDBTV0Qiu20G7TPaS7U6SJMgggVlno3nmglf/s1600-h/IMG_5341.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 217px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0QxQMM6TK6G0_btDUzNIwWidkozV-kzoS-xRQnn7pWzJb3Tg850-PVR46M-b8OdeoKEz-X83G-69XoGdI_1pQDRjed-nOAx7poeVCQ8N1kDBTV0Qiu20G7TPaS7U6SJMgggVlno3nmglf/s400/IMG_5341.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5336155391082519938" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7rHBy6mwLVdmHHqOGXdt2JyKClL6-ti-ECxrDNbVC4NIidvqQEp0c3ATX6vnyd3isnkkVtfK8jDcqR0tmlLQxYvGl9B-L4OUOK0exZCNrHH5t-6vm98nDB4qP2dJpuzdC5x211NoLpCtD/s1600-h/IMG_5284.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 302px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7rHBy6mwLVdmHHqOGXdt2JyKClL6-ti-ECxrDNbVC4NIidvqQEp0c3ATX6vnyd3isnkkVtfK8jDcqR0tmlLQxYvGl9B-L4OUOK0exZCNrHH5t-6vm98nDB4qP2dJpuzdC5x211NoLpCtD/s400/IMG_5284.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5336155388319610322" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqhe4eAXbgwaaRyCDeBNPPEjK0JK2Q6eP4z98Xb5QR3oq_Lx5MRsWXHJnYGW5effyiI-Tpi95Ycu91yMBUEseTtSPsvIUhptP-upsRY-4JHXZP92fOT1MUjBACjE9jiCRdxRjvFBsCXjLc/s1600-h/IMG_5317.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqhe4eAXbgwaaRyCDeBNPPEjK0JK2Q6eP4z98Xb5QR3oq_Lx5MRsWXHJnYGW5effyiI-Tpi95Ycu91yMBUEseTtSPsvIUhptP-upsRY-4JHXZP92fOT1MUjBACjE9jiCRdxRjvFBsCXjLc/s400/IMG_5317.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5336155381217331426" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6TXpcDrUcfXvxIieGFIUSJZBVpyehGe3u2VYT8bbayUmQgwmps_MnHo3pB1Hb0pqDD2e9L_xsY4p6NXmUH73KoLhoc03-gFwzDJSaSNPHxNyyI7R_iXtHOG_OagXAam2cCvnLs-cQmnFh/s1600-h/IMG_5293.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 210px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6TXpcDrUcfXvxIieGFIUSJZBVpyehGe3u2VYT8bbayUmQgwmps_MnHo3pB1Hb0pqDD2e9L_xsY4p6NXmUH73KoLhoc03-gFwzDJSaSNPHxNyyI7R_iXtHOG_OagXAam2cCvnLs-cQmnFh/s400/IMG_5293.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5336155379166803970" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrotfeK-1JyzdvJHTLJ3wp8Zk_rd9L1Ko0GJo-AMSsS_q8TQrMvVrkkkCNH9-y_3vIzwkvXAQ5ZsNfu5n6V7vg0jS7ajU83y8IEBcaryqDJTsreZE8jOClazDmmH4myGcxHHgJUj0iceXq/s1600-h/IMG_5323.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrotfeK-1JyzdvJHTLJ3wp8Zk_rd9L1Ko0GJo-AMSsS_q8TQrMvVrkkkCNH9-y_3vIzwkvXAQ5ZsNfu5n6V7vg0jS7ajU83y8IEBcaryqDJTsreZE8jOClazDmmH4myGcxHHgJUj0iceXq/s400/IMG_5323.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5336151158606257106" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5g3BIX6qBaTlgX-BVDfYKwGM68Z2xV2aVoZPLbOShMWWuWAIF65J2jHbRCeDqlNPSiChr0tRiqEcvo_4vBxwEoXmDaAsP3rJGivLIdYhdEpHnpuhub7WUjhup68HtiFflV80zI0e9tCj0/s1600-h/IMG_5339.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5g3BIX6qBaTlgX-BVDfYKwGM68Z2xV2aVoZPLbOShMWWuWAIF65J2jHbRCeDqlNPSiChr0tRiqEcvo_4vBxwEoXmDaAsP3rJGivLIdYhdEpHnpuhub7WUjhup68HtiFflV80zI0e9tCj0/s400/IMG_5339.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5336151152188715026" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-lkRV-3FiYh8goVruzm6zACHJ8VVACOJ64gIu4iH3Rj1uLBGeQXylQ48cC_exNTQbAPV_jjbUTOTjQwP_hztlu4nm44IHH82ffO4ZrDSpjZSePg-ZbzcZeLATLG8lGb30NOlZzV7kVlGE/s1600-h/IMG_5316.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-lkRV-3FiYh8goVruzm6zACHJ8VVACOJ64gIu4iH3Rj1uLBGeQXylQ48cC_exNTQbAPV_jjbUTOTjQwP_hztlu4nm44IHH82ffO4ZrDSpjZSePg-ZbzcZeLATLG8lGb30NOlZzV7kVlGE/s400/IMG_5316.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5336151154010216786" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgULivZ4H9kbmevaIpPy5QrIMrWHscIvbLW7SPbz8PvaVQ55IA7obTKomcWApZBQDSO8Jg85kvAvC0eIlJG2B6MObokHvGD9G9hKAe2jViy2dVygTNXRXW8OloIOn5jrelbYCsfYFrC9Ft-/s1600-h/IMG_5296.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 226px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgULivZ4H9kbmevaIpPy5QrIMrWHscIvbLW7SPbz8PvaVQ55IA7obTKomcWApZBQDSO8Jg85kvAvC0eIlJG2B6MObokHvGD9G9hKAe2jViy2dVygTNXRXW8OloIOn5jrelbYCsfYFrC9Ft-/s400/IMG_5296.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5336151150023707266" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbt_d7ivB95sLAYTgSNv3xhEFNsb5jE4VYw-moFzsH0Yiue1FdKx_Tle352Fih3y1xygViMBSQ-GZXJXBY0J2GFplTrAHaScJ_nEK-5QqpcdBcfWDyIQ65uOpBbaGZT9zZkwjsv4dQTtin/s1600-h/IMG_5288.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 302px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbt_d7ivB95sLAYTgSNv3xhEFNsb5jE4VYw-moFzsH0Yiue1FdKx_Tle352Fih3y1xygViMBSQ-GZXJXBY0J2GFplTrAHaScJ_nEK-5QqpcdBcfWDyIQ65uOpBbaGZT9zZkwjsv4dQTtin/s400/IMG_5288.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5336147087425164050" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimwnZZWiBA9VLcsrSUBJ435E5gYwNETrr09RRzwT_5isdzmErsCHsUij7MrB8GEylPiMxq31tZEp3lWMutkmbFeR-1mC6cBvvcmoL11FQchfxfAeXpblGxu-RSgtNctFug_3pu1oMS4JMf/s1600-h/IMG_5342.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 190px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimwnZZWiBA9VLcsrSUBJ435E5gYwNETrr09RRzwT_5isdzmErsCHsUij7MrB8GEylPiMxq31tZEp3lWMutkmbFeR-1mC6cBvvcmoL11FQchfxfAeXpblGxu-RSgtNctFug_3pu1oMS4JMf/s400/IMG_5342.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5336147082805658818" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAeBaMK04pswaS7rcWVdL1Z17Km8kPLXVCs5MPE5KH6PU0dzi8gtTdCkGs_void9fF-KJFPpwCz_yVx07Wmighp-Yq7rqF5hWsnu-CctMjzv0VfCxXOpM4RBLLT9d5N2-2ybBQhoKX26UY/s1600-h/IMG_5297.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAeBaMK04pswaS7rcWVdL1Z17Km8kPLXVCs5MPE5KH6PU0dzi8gtTdCkGs_void9fF-KJFPpwCz_yVx07Wmighp-Yq7rqF5hWsnu-CctMjzv0VfCxXOpM4RBLLT9d5N2-2ybBQhoKX26UY/s400/IMG_5297.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5336147074497774578" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><br /></span></span>Duncan Campbellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09583433367870552523noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5234450172985220661.post-60651204667123117742009-05-07T16:49:00.021+02:002009-05-09T08:38:34.555+02:00Sibyl, Pontius, and Le Marche's fabled splendour<span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">"Perhaps the same harshness of these mountains, scoured by the whistling wind, devoured by precipitous torrents, and drilled by peculiar karst phenomena, has contributed not a little to furthering a series of witch legends and making this place celebrated in the 14th and 15th centuries throughout all Europe for magical fairytales and necromantic initiations."<br /><br />Giuseppe Santarelli knew these mountains well, these central Apennines that bear a prophetess' name. The <span style="font-style: italic;">Sibillini</span> range on Le Marche's western edge may be crowned by Monte Vettore, its highest point at 2,476m/8,123ft, but it's Monte Sibilla that's the keeper of its secrets. Up here on the airy ridges you're never far from the legends that pervade this area, none more so than Sibilla's cave, an enchanted grotto of paradise and promiscuity, serpents and servitude.<br /><br /></span></span><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJXTYn137F-UvBPsKqPttCeLazNzYl0JPTx2DJFfLfAgAneoG_WR0jxddaCzYxDdwuXe8n7Sy0agjYeP8syUENy4_9-8hCBJ4F34w1wnsawBvAyEUg-MzYcYwpwgT7w65MBinsO3uEjQ2H/s1600-h/IMG_0086.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJXTYn137F-UvBPsKqPttCeLazNzYl0JPTx2DJFfLfAgAneoG_WR0jxddaCzYxDdwuXe8n7Sy0agjYeP8syUENy4_9-8hCBJ4F34w1wnsawBvAyEUg-MzYcYwpwgT7w65MBinsO3uEjQ2H/s320/IMG_0086.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5333372352251067714" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:78%;" >Julius with Monte Sibilla hidden by his cap, and Monte Vettore in the distance on the right</span><br /></div><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">Some would have it that the Apennine Sibyl (<span style="font-style: italic;">Sibilla</span>) is she of Cuma from Virgil's Aeneid, transmigrating here from the Phlegraean fields near Naples to escape the retributions of a burgeoning and disapproving Christianity. But local legend claims otherwise - she is born of the Apennines, </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">a beguiling blend of soothsayer </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">and enchantress, luring knights and adventurers into her lair until the end of time.<br /><br />We spend a lot of time up there, but we've never found the cave, although Julius claims otherwise (see picture). While being somewhat "atmospheric" and "suggestive", his grotto somehow didn't bear the marks of legend - of devil's bridges and razor's edges that widen with each successive step, sparkling sculpted dragons whose eyes illuminate all around, crashing metal doors that threaten to crush intruders, or "gilded alcoves and iridescent furniture."</span></span><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimN_tN1FWKSmouNkhEQ6JnOWl5PRf9H_db5DIV5pwUpscDIKcfXlB1lYfmPtPES-cFZyp4Ub3s_lFa4O0jWKzNOBCEyoVvjzk3iys5oAoahRv7MoVJDuzGtMweOXAw5IEg27ZJpTdmCGEe/s1600-h/P0002328-1.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 174px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimN_tN1FWKSmouNkhEQ6JnOWl5PRf9H_db5DIV5pwUpscDIKcfXlB1lYfmPtPES-cFZyp4Ub3s_lFa4O0jWKzNOBCEyoVvjzk3iys5oAoahRv7MoVJDuzGtMweOXAw5IEg27ZJpTdmCGEe/s320/P0002328-1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5333372350567993954" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:78%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">Julius' Grotta della Sibilla</span></span><br /></div><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><br />Antoine de la Salle tells of a German adventurer - some say it was Wagner's Tannhauser - who braved the doors, the dragons, and the violent winds to find a paradise of "gay and carefree youth" fluent in all the languages of the world, where stunning maidens treated them to a life of inexhaustible lust and pleasure, where "old age was banned and pain did not have the right of citizenship." But the signs of the devil were ever evident as every Friday at midnight their consorts transformed into the most terrifying serpents, staying that way until midnight Saturday, when they retransformed themselves into the creatures of delight that kept the knight there without coercion.<br /><br />When he finally pulled himself away on the 330th day - after which he would not have been able to leave - his conscience bade him express his remorse to the pope and beg for pardon. When the pope refused, the devastated knight returned to the cave, never to be seen again.<br /><br />While we haven't been able to find the cave, legendary signs abound. Like the shattered shards of shale around Monte Vettore, for example, a product of the goatlike feet of the cave's <span style="font-style: italic;">fate</span> (fairies) as they scrambled back to the grotto. Periodically the <span style="font-style: italic;">fate</span> would descend from their haven to teach the village girls spinning and weaving, and dance the <span style="font-style: italic;">saltarello </span>with the young men. If they didn't make it back to the cave before sunrise, they transformed into mere mortals. And if you were a <span style="font-style: italic;">fata</span>, who (gasp) would want that?<br /><br /></span></span><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX68nvQuKuJjzlLwplWE7xgnhBE1CjLGPebQPzvv1RBq2TeGsez3aQdtBZqFY6LHqJ9BJIJaDtsXDkugEkSaLnSfqRyq6iLob_CokUZ2ZfFRB45dyvbg_b5XMSzB46xaI7e-PN4luNcnd7/s1600-h/IMG_9993.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 222px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX68nvQuKuJjzlLwplWE7xgnhBE1CjLGPebQPzvv1RBq2TeGsez3aQdtBZqFY6LHqJ9BJIJaDtsXDkugEkSaLnSfqRyq6iLob_CokUZ2ZfFRB45dyvbg_b5XMSzB46xaI7e-PN4luNcnd7/s320/IMG_9993.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5333376001576242274" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:78%;" >Monte Vettore's "shattered shards of shale", Monte Sibilla ridge in the background</span><br /></div><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><br /><span>The other main mythical site in the Sibillini, </span><span style="font-style: italic;">Lago di Pilato</span> (Pilate Lake), is somewhat easier to find than the cave - it nestles in a mountain bowl just below Monte Vettore, and is a popular summer hiking destination. It's here that Pontius Pilate is reputed to be buried, deep in the frigid waters of the twin lakes "in the form of two lenses, like the glasses of a rattlesnake." While many other places in Europe claim to be his final resting place, locals claim that before being executed, Pilate asked Emperor Tiberius for his corpse to be put into a cart drawn by buffaloes, "and left to the power of fate." Somehow fate guided the buffaloes huffing and puffing up to the Sibillini. Another account claims that the waters of the lake turned blood red at the precise moment of Jesus' crucifiction, and that on the surrounding slopes leaves suddenly sprouted resembling two joined hands, each pierced with a nail. (The fact that a rare freshwater shrimp turns the lake's waters red at spawning time is neither here nor there.)<br /><br /></span></span><div style="text-align: center;"><img src="file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/user/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot.jpg" alt="" /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4aJoucEeWOFtX1Is_oRhmK6iO86GsJVsyg9UJTo4vGVojLB8rzW-los_VOigUHjHTItqR-HUMvumv1aBOY64vS6rU_dF0GggT8FnLJzUVOOj1n6wNA1F4HEFGmcU2YnnIQaqn17yLb5Sz/s1600-h/Lago+di+Pilato.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 215px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4aJoucEeWOFtX1Is_oRhmK6iO86GsJVsyg9UJTo4vGVojLB8rzW-los_VOigUHjHTItqR-HUMvumv1aBOY64vS6rU_dF0GggT8FnLJzUVOOj1n6wNA1F4HEFGmcU2YnnIQaqn17yLb5Sz/s320/Lago+di+Pilato.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5333378794243057890" border="0" /></a><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:78%;" >Lago di Pilato</span><div style="text-align: right;"><span style=";font-family:webdings;font-size:78%;" >(Copyright GiulioC@Flickr.com</span>)</div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style=";font-family:verdana;font-size:85%;" >The lake was also a gathering place for necromancers - nearby Norcia in Umbria was a known centre of witchcraft. Here they would summons their demons, asking for favour in executing evil deeds, in exchange for thier souls. Intruders on such rites were summarily dispatched in rather unappealing ways. But of course that's all just legend ...<br /><br />... and one doesn't need the legends to enjoy this most spectacular of Le Marche's natural wonders. However, it certainly adds a little colour, and gives its already mystical air yet another dimension. After all, as Giuseppe Santarelli suggests with a classical Italian lyricism: "... inside the cocoon of the ancient legend is the diligent silkworm of eternal knwoledge and the light butterfly of immortal poetry."</span><br /></div></div>Duncan Campbellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09583433367870552523noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5234450172985220661.post-91873741571301127312009-04-29T09:13:00.012+02:002009-04-29T14:57:29.557+02:00Rural Mural<span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">One of my other jobs out here in Italy's hidden secret involves writing a monthly column on Le Marche's many excellent wineries (or, more specifically, Macerata province's). Last week this took me to Matelica, one and only source of its green gold pride, Verdicchio di Matelica. But that's not the subject of this posting.<br /><br />Every time I go to a town I always stop in at the tourist office to see what's going on, what's new, and to get a local's impressions on any- and everything (normally it's a different person from the last time I was there). This time I stumbled upon a brochure of a nearby town that initiated a project to paint murals on the walls of several houses. After wading through the customary morass of bureaucracy and getting the required permits, art students from all over Italy and beyond came to decorate the walls of this village. This was several years ago, but I reckoned they were still there (the murals, not the artists), and so I took a drive out there.<br /><br />While some of the murals have been painted over by now, those that remain are a dlightful surprise, adding a colourful and distinctly alternative dimension to this picturesque, traditional village. Take a look. (Double-click on the picture and it will open full-size.)<br /><br /></span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7dFyZMt8b3iBCyYGZkEXL59k-ioZcXFod02LLLsGD4bhP8xrBZ2_PUSdT1GHgrelRDvGj2pPfTlGB3BkVkVhUIJYQb22yprtMzErBfWyWgnx9b1GPapS1JGKWzghaZqFsWuMmhcQjonju/s1600-h/IMG_5184.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7dFyZMt8b3iBCyYGZkEXL59k-ioZcXFod02LLLsGD4bhP8xrBZ2_PUSdT1GHgrelRDvGj2pPfTlGB3BkVkVhUIJYQb22yprtMzErBfWyWgnx9b1GPapS1JGKWzghaZqFsWuMmhcQjonju/s400/IMG_5184.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5330084139660172594" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjii_W7rKbw5Kd2uu79gwJbjKHdnAuLsC25B6bYiqjLI3onjaxWticEhfcQZlnB_5w3eHsb8FDcbKg-D9D_35pJIXaC24o5Hg0wQmdTtWOPB4vL_T4hywmnywbyipPAVUtSOJ-dHpbo1iL/s1600-h/IMG_5186.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjii_W7rKbw5Kd2uu79gwJbjKHdnAuLsC25B6bYiqjLI3onjaxWticEhfcQZlnB_5w3eHsb8FDcbKg-D9D_35pJIXaC24o5Hg0wQmdTtWOPB4vL_T4hywmnywbyipPAVUtSOJ-dHpbo1iL/s400/IMG_5186.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5330084132363670658" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj-tV9atBsCXL-fhZSShhGt6ydXEEj3Q-9j5utTGckN0f512ixefaWxjTb1xAexPLBb9zKK36P9QNXzw8Vn6VhvcwEgsD797xCqw-Px_WBiJWsJ9KraB7d6X9APtb7B598OG2PhN2UTFqo/s1600-h/IMG_5187.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj-tV9atBsCXL-fhZSShhGt6ydXEEj3Q-9j5utTGckN0f512ixefaWxjTb1xAexPLBb9zKK36P9QNXzw8Vn6VhvcwEgsD797xCqw-Px_WBiJWsJ9KraB7d6X9APtb7B598OG2PhN2UTFqo/s400/IMG_5187.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5330078349785200530" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqbzp5civI_NJpx2tQ8BE1YR1U8jva6AEeE7yn1kHHNyGJh4eWuFRikusHkwT8IFaGwZRrp71aXPDH_chDelLD9GNtfIGrGSygCMqm426a0n9y-_iYwF2KiKByEB0LUeFknDQIvM4OFGr-/s1600-h/IMG_5213.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; 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display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6W7wZ6Gnv7am4sJUlXZL0Le5MjYTz1o4Lohgl55NX6Ebvy8KGLr9JzJ2h1kjwzNrNFQZymhAkgIIeo3KdJY0n4PqUkwl_8ub4rKe5JPyOwUxiKYvM8_YJD8Qi2mpPcBKKCLtpO0JNRi3t/s400/IMG_5201.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5330075896775296130" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidIra5DVxMJwFIjkJ5uyICCfEL55oPIwsvmmeFI9nboFIzHq7Wo5DxtUclpwprz3kBBVuPisnkNhaeZIGJ-pheXuXigdl6SL_OOcK_h1UAOESi7_TmKrIMHMf4IkzE0XcnQFN0zLhqW7af/s1600-h/IMG_5205.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 384px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidIra5DVxMJwFIjkJ5uyICCfEL55oPIwsvmmeFI9nboFIzHq7Wo5DxtUclpwprz3kBBVuPisnkNhaeZIGJ-pheXuXigdl6SL_OOcK_h1UAOESi7_TmKrIMHMf4IkzE0XcnQFN0zLhqW7af/s400/IMG_5205.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5330073531872325266" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOu-zFlO7-p7kPyeJdpYTddmVV_5MbyZQsCf5dPGqbU18nObjLv-a0vGxEIqmaukVxT2VQOf_XI2iO0GCCKrp1Q7fku1_BusmXAIyALPeQtUdtYRvtTMuf_2UUobQNT9zTINBnhDYLctCv/s1600-h/IMG_5189.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOu-zFlO7-p7kPyeJdpYTddmVV_5MbyZQsCf5dPGqbU18nObjLv-a0vGxEIqmaukVxT2VQOf_XI2iO0GCCKrp1Q7fku1_BusmXAIyALPeQtUdtYRvtTMuf_2UUobQNT9zTINBnhDYLctCv/s400/IMG_5189.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5330073530461159890" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHgaioJHJqY_oc5Hn0xlWq_YHnChLboXkIkNkjeIK4IdlgNu7iLhLt3D1nTpGA-2Rn2rpKFU1-HVzEEq8ZP16KwMz9b_FwN1rvzKb5ilivIQXlK2MX55ZraJOe1Ooh7g1Igpoy9el-TfBr/s1600-h/IMG_5185.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 244px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHgaioJHJqY_oc5Hn0xlWq_YHnChLboXkIkNkjeIK4IdlgNu7iLhLt3D1nTpGA-2Rn2rpKFU1-HVzEEq8ZP16KwMz9b_FwN1rvzKb5ilivIQXlK2MX55ZraJOe1Ooh7g1Igpoy9el-TfBr/s400/IMG_5185.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5330073523622337474" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKji8utjOHOnaURazPAQjOsOFJQcdgDjpLwgGld2QZfl2DwqWGJXEE6TmV2JhLU9DJwPGtHGRbvXHyYyqk4LsDlhkWxxDM4PsYIQAgTQ5EpL6xLaeQNTVuKJcsiri1ISIcjFF-XjJkSHCj/s1600-h/IMG_5199.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKji8utjOHOnaURazPAQjOsOFJQcdgDjpLwgGld2QZfl2DwqWGJXEE6TmV2JhLU9DJwPGtHGRbvXHyYyqk4LsDlhkWxxDM4PsYIQAgTQ5EpL6xLaeQNTVuKJcsiri1ISIcjFF-XjJkSHCj/s400/IMG_5199.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5330070391887982066" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguR6o-EAqsD43zk8boZJNHIJ9x3Hmt5FvUs5rwMh34McM8vJn5yMmDEbsQc5PfmqF0t46LI1OfKJKvveYVzrRi8CmQAWe7U7UpplrVA-W1Yi2h1gU9ClbXuAKO2Lmgj-ivxrug0gePCL_o/s1600-h/IMG_5193.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 302px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguR6o-EAqsD43zk8boZJNHIJ9x3Hmt5FvUs5rwMh34McM8vJn5yMmDEbsQc5PfmqF0t46LI1OfKJKvveYVzrRi8CmQAWe7U7UpplrVA-W1Yi2h1gU9ClbXuAKO2Lmgj-ivxrug0gePCL_o/s400/IMG_5193.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5330070389777885074" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDaifUBbfjKVLhMlPsCfw8kvWJpCij4Qt2OWU7PAk5iFXrnKBSMw0rvzOXpLSvhbxRxkdhnkSN-iK2f0mWdG9_jftlwuv8rL1OC5rYCy4sHR3l0P9mIluvRF3HU-I283YwLK1UItQTloiO/s1600-h/IMG_5198.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDaifUBbfjKVLhMlPsCfw8kvWJpCij4Qt2OWU7PAk5iFXrnKBSMw0rvzOXpLSvhbxRxkdhnkSN-iK2f0mWdG9_jftlwuv8rL1OC5rYCy4sHR3l0P9mIluvRF3HU-I283YwLK1UItQTloiO/s400/IMG_5198.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5330070383366414274" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><br /></span></span>Duncan Campbellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09583433367870552523noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5234450172985220661.post-48386135480251453272009-04-15T15:08:00.006+02:002009-04-15T16:50:16.669+02:00Serendipitous Le Marche<span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">It was just a single line in an obscure guide, innocuously recommending a visit to the <span style="font-style: italic;">piano nobile</span> of the municipal building "if you have time." I'm glad I had time, although I questioned my use of it when the tourist lady said she'd need to go and get the keys from another office to get in, thinking as I was of the likely fruitless search for the right person, the rummaging around for the keys, the numerous tries in the lock from the bunch resembling a genius's puzzle, ... When the friend with whom she was lost in conversation when I made my request accompanied us, I raised the other eyebrow a little quizzically too.<br /><br />But all misgivings evaporated when we found the right person immediately, located the appropriate key with equal speed, and was thrust into the most sumptuous of municipal hearing rooms I have ever been in. While the plush green upholstery was impressive, it was the walls and the ceilings that prompted my jaw to drop and my mouth to utter a monosyllabic grunt of awe - ornate, colourful frescoes invited me in, offering accounts of the town's history and depictions of Italy's four surrounding seas. The photos below don't begin to capture its all-round appeal.<br /><br />I was thankful too for the presence of the friend, whose knowledge of the frescoes and the pictures in the next room was somewhat superior to the tourist lady's. The adjoining rooms were quite different, but in their own way just as engaging, with baroque furniture lounging idly in the corners, and a half-wall of vignettes giving life to Dante's Divine Comedy courtesy one Filippo Bigioli, an early nineteenth-century artist I hadn't heard of before. (Unfortunately the room was too dark to take pictures of his vignettes.)<br /><br />And this after a highly rewarding visit to the town's small <span style="font-style: italic;">Pinacoteca Civica</span> with its Crivelli brother masterpieces and other gems dating back to the beginning of the thirteenth century. I'm not an art buff, but the craftwork of the works on display by the Crivellis and other artists whose names were new to me can't but be admired. Outside, the elliptical main piazza is an attraction of its own, with its arched arcades and beckoning coffee shops. Tucked away in central Le Marche, this town deserves a visit for anyone with the time, and if you don't have it, make it.<br /><br />Post a comment if you know the place I'm talking about.</span></span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">(If you click on the picture, it will launch a full-size view of it.)</span></span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSKqGKrr3Hx_tMj7PfGyCPurhZsZ6_facsiGjh22iTtaN8eQBeW2H5Bjq5IZ9dfSZ6U2m7YuyxCimCvOazQs9C80jpPvEetd2RE7I5WYCrIiuvGOKRPbDo0DULFZ3OOIVW4tFbGSvsygad/s1600-h/IMG_4557.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 317px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSKqGKrr3Hx_tMj7PfGyCPurhZsZ6_facsiGjh22iTtaN8eQBeW2H5Bjq5IZ9dfSZ6U2m7YuyxCimCvOazQs9C80jpPvEetd2RE7I5WYCrIiuvGOKRPbDo0DULFZ3OOIVW4tFbGSvsygad/s400/IMG_4557.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5324927879320864962" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCosk05FV9ZV1tedkSBxsu6W15BQL6yIBmjYoN6b9yN8Thz2GgFXGh4kCeUY9L8P2H4pEmBw1XU2Qz4ew35pW2XvH4tGGhEgBxE7KmZNVWaKry4i-oXQSULEUDwcrhJFVxfFgrsbjClsmu/s1600-h/IMG_4551.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 288px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCosk05FV9ZV1tedkSBxsu6W15BQL6yIBmjYoN6b9yN8Thz2GgFXGh4kCeUY9L8P2H4pEmBw1XU2Qz4ew35pW2XvH4tGGhEgBxE7KmZNVWaKry4i-oXQSULEUDwcrhJFVxfFgrsbjClsmu/s400/IMG_4551.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5324925287209982946" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKRrQV-rYiWSXPLNxEX2Ay5Tcbfz_8BCC3uwMgzSUplNBq3WZBPEPh6vNBnJZASChzvjdbVI-RBHpucjyZByiYnvXaVp_SEN0cZkiHmaqesyUM2AyYOCCVI_5CPmK6q3h03X-cmzTTPPZw/s1600-h/IMG_4558.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 314px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKRrQV-rYiWSXPLNxEX2Ay5Tcbfz_8BCC3uwMgzSUplNBq3WZBPEPh6vNBnJZASChzvjdbVI-RBHpucjyZByiYnvXaVp_SEN0cZkiHmaqesyUM2AyYOCCVI_5CPmK6q3h03X-cmzTTPPZw/s400/IMG_4558.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5324925283339408866" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUbG_JqgEJzfnnDIAJK_e7jnyrhpdaMxmBwcd7evStno_UcBNKlylu-C-XOEkYmSnVZ3EEi7zVJJ5_I-zZ1fIuUyAkB2gHRaUmeavPMJeNokl1QzDkh41Nowl-rcccfqorbqEDX92JfESI/s1600-h/IMG_4556.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 350px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUbG_JqgEJzfnnDIAJK_e7jnyrhpdaMxmBwcd7evStno_UcBNKlylu-C-XOEkYmSnVZ3EEi7zVJJ5_I-zZ1fIuUyAkB2gHRaUmeavPMJeNokl1QzDkh41Nowl-rcccfqorbqEDX92JfESI/s400/IMG_4556.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5324925282012848130" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVpXD1pxIo1S_jJsRvLWYX4kd35HpRRVVeqZAs-wo4ge4JsGjwuAQlcchvlwBS7pB_OMBMl4wyJu-OUDjSrmtQnskYmQI8unH0erPjRzpw-nhlfugw9XhuXs4JKRkgkJyeNyxggmCmx9Ur/s1600-h/IMG_4553.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 267px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVpXD1pxIo1S_jJsRvLWYX4kd35HpRRVVeqZAs-wo4ge4JsGjwuAQlcchvlwBS7pB_OMBMl4wyJu-OUDjSrmtQnskYmQI8unH0erPjRzpw-nhlfugw9XhuXs4JKRkgkJyeNyxggmCmx9Ur/s400/IMG_4553.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5324925275809953634" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_nz6g6Q-pwzszeuCCTU9JA97mdd6jX_-BGBnTu8rPhyphenhyphencEyqo8gFTr7TwF_FHvD_CVSXFbenOqJkmbrYKWBBpcYEB57A5ftA4P_yhGBz7ckbLXFsgRRo5su8QLwciL8tIKupH1FJdIqFFV/s1600-h/IMG_4565.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 272px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_nz6g6Q-pwzszeuCCTU9JA97mdd6jX_-BGBnTu8rPhyphenhyphencEyqo8gFTr7TwF_FHvD_CVSXFbenOqJkmbrYKWBBpcYEB57A5ftA4P_yhGBz7ckbLXFsgRRo5su8QLwciL8tIKupH1FJdIqFFV/s400/IMG_4565.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5324929042271200210" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"><br /><br /><br /><br /></span></span>Duncan Campbellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09583433367870552523noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5234450172985220661.post-12612832453765395952009-04-06T14:32:00.003+02:002009-04-06T18:22:38.331+02:00Le Marche wines - suprising variety, unquestionable quality<span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">In 2008 Italy overtook France for the first time since 1998 as the world's biggest wine producer, turning out 4.7 billion litres of the stuff. Now it's a little difficult to get one's head around such a number, so looking at it in terms of consumption is helpful. <br /><br />Italy also happens to be the world's biggest consumer of wine (in per capita terms), perhaps not surprising given their proclivity to pair most (non-breakfast) food with a glass or so of fermented grape juice. In 2007 they bought 299 million cases or some 2.7 billion litres, around 57% of what they produced. Converted into everyday terms, that means each Italian older than 15 (including the teetotallers) drinks a bottle of wine roughly every five days.<br /><br />Somehow that number seems low, but I think there's a good reason for that. There's a vast production of wine that never makes it into commercially sold bottles, let alone into the stores that peddle them - the ubiquitous home brew, product of so many vines growing on the side of the house, next to the road, down near the culvert, and a hundred other places that simply can't be left to bare earth. Our neighbours, for instance, make 400 litres a year, and drink it all themselves. Notwithstanding the fact that they're one of the larger farms around here, it's still of modest size when one thinks in terms of cooperatives and agricultural empires, so think how many litres that translates into nation-wide when one takes into account all the grape-growing neighbours of Italy.<br /><br />But all that's really beside the point. It's Le Marche's wines that we're here to talk about. And what a conversation it is - the region's wine cellar is a treasure-chest of discovery, not least because their labels, blends and varietals are relatively unknown. Also, annual production is small by the standards of other regions - 181.5 million litres, or around 7% of the national production comes out of Marche.<br /><br />But that doesn't mean it's inferior - far from it, in fact. For example, on the <span style="font-style: italic;">Associazione Italiana Sommelier</span> (AIS - Italian Association of Wine Sommeliers) list of 5-star wines for 2009 (those that scored 91-100 points), Le Marche has 21 - only the Piedmont, Tuscany, and Friuli-Venezia Giulia have more. Much has changed in the wine industry here in the past 10 years or so - as it has in other parts of Italy - with cultivation and fermentation techniques undergoing research, improvement and modernization, old varietals being resurrected, international ones being introduced (or re-introduced in some cases), and overall quality rising steadily compared with 20 and 30 years ago.<br /><br />The fact that Marche's wines are not as well known as those of other regions makes a visit here one of discovery and adventure for the taste buds. Sure wine-drinkers around the world may already know about Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi - perhaps as much for its striking green amphora bottle as for its verdant freshness - but there are many others worthy of attention, despite their probable anonymity outside Italy (and even Le Marche): Bianchello, Falerio, Esino, Maceratesi, Pesaresi, Pecorino ... and that's just the whites (which make up 62% of the region's production). Amongst the reds, there's also plenty to choose from, with Rosso Piceno leading the way in terms of production, and Rosso Conero and Lacrima di Morro d'Alba standing out in terms of depth and variety. International varieties such as cabernet sauvignon, merlot, pinot noir, chardonnay, and sauvignon blanc are also now beginning to make a strong statement in the region's offerings, while area specialties such as Serrapetrona's Vernaccia and Loro Piceno's vino cotto continue to add another long-standing dimension to an already appealing array of wine products.<br /><br />Some say Le Marche's selection of wines is reason enough to visit this wonderful part of the world, and I'd be hard-pressed to disagree (even though it has a lot more to offer). So when you pack your bags for a trip to Italy's best-kept secret, be sure to pack your palates - they'll be very glad you brought them along.<br /><br />(There'll be more in future blog posts on specific wines and growing areas, so check back for periodic updates.)<br /></span></span>Duncan Campbellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09583433367870552523noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5234450172985220661.post-4226501790849450412009-03-25T09:50:00.003+01:002009-03-25T14:26:23.727+01:00Le Marche - a few fast facts<span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">Le Marche covers an area of 9,693 sq. km. (3,742 sq. miles), making it 15th biggest of Italy's 20 regions. Its borders are the Adriatic Ocean to the east, Emilia-Romagna and </span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;">the independent republic of San Marino</span></span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-family:verdana;"> to the north, Tuscany, Umbria, and Lazio to the west, and Abruzzo to the south.<br /><br />With a population of around 1.5 million, the largest city and capital is Ancona with just a smidgen over 100,000 inhabitants residents. The coast is more populous than inland, with Pesaro (around 92,000) and Fano (about 58,000) on the north coast ranking second and third in the population stakes. (Italy's total population is around 58 million.)<br /><br />The region is divided into five provinces - Pesaro-Urbino in the north, Ancona in the middle, Macerata just south of that, Fermo wedging in below it and the southernmost province of Asocli Piceno. The capital of each province is the city it's named after.<br /><br />The central Apennine mountains form the backbone of its natural western border, peaking at the summit of Monte Vettore (2,476m/8,123ft) in the Sibillini range. Between the Apennines and the Adriatic is a magical prospect of rolling hills, craggy outcrops, hilltop towns, and patchwork fields. Over 100,000 hectares are protected, the majority of which are in the two national parks - Monti Sibillini, and Gran Sasso & Monti della Laga, which straddles the Abruzzo border. In addition, there are four regional parks, three natural reserves, 15 state forests, and over 100 floricultural areas.<br /><br />Le Marche's towns are some of the best-preserved medieval specimens in the whole of Italy, and among its piazzas are some of the country's most beautiful. Art, history, and architecture abound. According to the region's tourist office: 500 piazzas, more than 1,000 significant monuments, a hundred "cities of art", thousands of churches (including 200 Romanesque), 34 archaeological sites, 72 historic theatres, and the highest density of museums and art galleries in Italy (342 spread over 246 municipalities).<br /><br />Then there's the shopping, the food, and the wine, but that'll have to wait for another time ...<br /><br /></span></span>Duncan Campbellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09583433367870552523noreply@blogger.com1